Oil Temperature Sensor/Gauge problem - Page 2

DouglasABaker · 20th October 2009, 18:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by vantaam5

No need to drop the lower pan,just drain oil and remove the connector and bolts that hold the switch and change it.

Well sure, if you want to go the easy way

d-

vchachanidze · 20th October 2009, 19:19

Great info, thank you very much for your help! One more job to do at next change.

Mike S. · 20th October 2009, 20:39

Thanks for clearing that up. I thought I remembered that it was integral to the oil leveling switch in the lower pan. Sometimes, I should just go with my gut.

100%Cocoa · 12th December 2009, 15:47

Interesting thread. Cheers for all the good info as ever guys. My 'Thermal Level Sensor' has started failing intermittently too. The temp gauge shoots to max and you get a "Check Engine Oil Level" warning when you switch off. You also get code 2C.

My question on the subject is this - as long as I keep checking the oil level, which I do every journey anyway, and as long as I don't gun the engine before it's warm (so just give it minimum 10 miles to warm up) then will it do any harm to run the car with this sensor being faulty? I have a crazy schedule before, and all over Christmas. I may not be able to fit this in as I need to do it at a garage as we need to drain the sump.......

UNLESS - does anyone know a way of doing this WITHOUT draining all the oil?!

Apart from that, I only did an oil change about 400 miles ago - it seems such a waste!

The car drives totally normally with the fault, so I guess the DME must use a different sensor?

herrubermensch · 12th December 2009, 17:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Essixtytwo

Mike S,

your initial hunch seems to be right. The sensor on the bottom of the oil pan is oil level and oil temp sensor into one. The sensor at the underside of the oil filter housing is, according to the ETK, the oil pressure switch.

Correct. The sensor in the oil filter housing is solely to activate the "idiot light" in the cluster when your oil pressure drops below a set level. Temp sensor is in the bottom of the sump, where it needs to be in order to get the most accurate reading.

--Peter

100%Cocoa · 12th December 2009, 18:50

Doesn't the DME need to know oil temp? Or does it use water temp? As I say, the car seems to drive completely normally without this sensor functioning...... ? Or is something else going on?

Essixtytwo · 13th December 2009, 17:36

The DME uses coolant temp input as one of the variables, not oil temp. Hence no difference in engine behaviour.

vantaam5 · 13th December 2009, 17:57

There is no way around draining the oil from the pan...

TMcNasty · 13th December 2009, 17:57

DIY -Repair stripped oil pan drain plug

My oil pan drain plug repair thread has info. on replacing this part (torque #'s and gasket part #). The only thing missing is the part number for the sensor itself. I reused my sensor.

100%Cocoa · 15th December 2009, 13:52

Thanks guys. Looks like Kumaran (M5 London) and I are going to have a go at this on Friday morning. 1 sensor and 16 Litres of Edge on its way

. (8 of those for stock obviously).

Does anyone remember if the new o-ring comes in the packet with the new sensor or do you have to order separately?

BTW - since I have less than 500 miles on the current oil/filter, would you guys change the filter too while we're at it? I feel like I'm chucking a lot of money down the drain here - literaly!

PS -

For UK owners - the sensor from BMW is £107 (inc VAT). Kumaran got this one for me via www.BMMiniParts.com for £77.31, so well worth having a search around before buying this type of thing.