Low mileage or High mileage e39? What's better to buy?

geomystic · 15th October 2009, 18:43

I have been looking for an 01-03 e39 LMB for about 2 months now. I have seen quite a few low mileage, sub 30k, for around $30k and some 80k plus mileage examples running around $20k.

Originally I wanted a 50k, or around there, car but those seem to be a bit expensive for me. Actually close in price to some 30k sub cars.

Would it worth spending $5-$8k on a low mileage car, which gives me a bit more relief knowing it was not possibly abused during its youth?

Or is it worth saving the $5-$8k, get an 80k plus model which most likely had all its typical issues addressed already, but may need some interior and exterior TLC?

I know everyone has a different opinion on this, and I would love to hear all of them.

Also if you know anyone selling an 01-03 LMB car, send it over!

Thanks in advance!

v-man · 15th October 2009, 19:24

Once you go and drive them you will find out that some high-mileage cars feel better than some low-mileage ones. Deciding then is easy

wilsodh · 15th October 2009, 19:43

Generally, lower mileage is always better, even a lower mileage earlier model year. The rule of thumb is get the lowest mileage car you can afford. PPI any serious candidate.

Dave

-BEASTMW- · 16th October 2009, 01:02

It's like finding a woman. Think of mileage as age and condition as physical shape. A 40-year old that is still fit and toned is probably more desirable than a 20-year-old slob. But likewise, if you can afford the in-shape 20-year-old then go for it, you'll have many many years of fun times together. Regardless, some quality dating time (PPI) is essential so that you don't end up going broke and insane with constant headaches.

CarbonCopy · 16th October 2009, 01:04

I generally agree with Wilsodh above. However, much of the equation depends on what the car has had done or might need soon and what are you willing/capable of doing yourself. For instance my car had Inspection II done, a new clutch/flywheel within 200 miles, front brakes/rotors not too long ago and a bunch of stuff at the dealer. I also found out that with the former owner's receipts I could get the valve cover gaskets redone free as they were again leaking. Aparently the dealer honored a two year warrantee on work done at the dealer and the work was actually done at another dealer. So on one hand a low 35-40K mile car would be nice but it would be headed into territory where all these issues are going to come "due".

blackxs · 16th October 2009, 01:14

An E39 M5 driven 20,000 miles without an oil change, without an air filter, and while slipping the clutch every time they move, will be in worse shape than many 100,000+ mile E39s. Its all about the car. The engines really dont even break in till hell, 50,000 miles so dont dismiss higher mileage cars just because of the mileage. Look at the maintenance history and talk to the previous owners. Get a PPI and see which one is in better shape.

Mileage is just a number, not an indicator of the car's condition. It really comes down to a car-by-car basis which one is best. Dont overlook anything and drive them both.

churious · 16th October 2009, 01:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by -BEASTMW-

It's like finding a woman. Think of mileage as age and condition as physical shape. A 40-year old that is still fit and toned is probably more desirable than a 20-year-old slob. But likewise, if you can afford the in-shape 20-year-old then go for it, you'll have many many years of fun times together.

geomystic · 16th October 2009, 02:22

All very good points. The tough part of the test driving is that the cars are usually out of state. So I would be flying to test drive. Which I will, but before the flight I want to be sure it's a car I would buy if the drive and PPi go as planned. Test driving multiple to compare is not very realistic in that situation. But if they are close by, for sure.

Also, I know this may be slightly off topic, but can I trust a PPI if I pay the seller to do it for me before I go out there? I rather be at the dealer myself with the car, but has anyone reimbursed the seller for time and cost, to have them get the PPI and send you the results?

jt2ma71 · 16th October 2009, 03:39

Working at a car dealership I see all sorts of condition vehicles that come in.

Mileage can mean very little when it comes to used cars.

I see cars come in that are only 3 years old, have about 100,000KM's on them and look like absolute crap, they feel "loose", transmissions shift weird, creaks and rattles everywhere, body damage all over the place, smell funky inside. On the other hand you get the occasional 06 with 140+ KM that feels like new again, interior is mint, exterior is flawless engine/tranny run great.

Obviously in an ideal situation a low mileage pristine condition M5 would just so happen end up in your driveway with the owner telling you he needs the cash asap and the papers are already filled out just waiting for you to sign and hand over the cash.

There are so many factors. Maintence is key. There is a reason why its called preventative maintenence, in order to prevent bad stuff from happening.

I would strongly suggest you get a PPI done at a reputable dealer/BMW dealer. There are lots of little things you can overlook. I didnt have a PPI done when i first bought my car, I inspected it myself, and after I had it done i found i did miss a few things, abliet very minor.

-BEASTMW- · 16th October 2009, 04:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by geomystic

All very good points. The tough part of the test driving is that the cars are usually out of state. So I would be flying to test drive. Which I will, but before the flight I want to be sure it's a car I would buy if the drive and PPi go as planned. Test driving multiple to compare is not very realistic in that situation. But if they are close by, for sure.

Also, I know this may be slightly off topic, but can I trust a PPI if I pay the seller to do it for me before I go out there? I rather be at the dealer myself with the car, but has anyone reimbursed the seller for time and cost, to have them get the PPI and send you the results?

I paid for mine, but if you can get the seller to pay I would just have the service shop fax/e-mail you a copy of the PPI results, that's what I did in additions to talking on the phone with the shop about the results. If you're worried about possible bias/bribery, if you use a shop with a good reputation and reviews, I don't think they would risk this. It's pretty obvious if they say something is ok and then it's clearly not. Good luck.