Rear axle bearing replaced (driver's side) UGH! *PICS* - Page 5

bimmerule · 2nd July 2012, 03:46

This thread is painful to watch, esp considering the 100+F temp. Good luck sorting it!

Flyin-m5 · 2nd July 2012, 03:49

Remove axel from diff before getting it to move because it was tight to get it away from the diff.

Note: Axel was rotated forward to get out of the diff.

If you have moved it at all it might require the nut going back on to reseat it to the bearing for enough clearance at the diff.

+ YouTube Video

Georgia M5 · 2nd July 2012, 04:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flyin-m5

I didn't think my axel was going to move either then it moved about 1/2mm........20 solid hits later it was out.

If you remove the axel,the carrier will then hold the bearing and flange so that you can remove the flange from the bearing and then unbolt the bearing.

If you take off the bearing/flange you then have to find a way to hold it to remove the bearing(I thought it was easier to let the car hold it for me).

Then when you reassemble the carrier will hold the bearing so that you can press the flange back into the new bearing(I used a harbor freight front wheel bearing remover to do this).

Another trick that I would add that I found in another DIY:

You need something to hold the hub while removing the inner and outer chases while turning the jaw puller. The easiet thing to do is take your wheel and lay it flat on the ground. Reinsert two lug bolts into it and thread into the hub to keep the hub from turning while you turn the jaw puller.

I can't remember, but I don't think you need to mount it in the rotor like the pic.

datnewnewm5 · 2nd July 2012, 04:02

oh btw what is the tightening torque of the 6 axle bolts is it 64nm or 100nm?

datnewnewm5 · 2nd July 2012, 04:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Georgia M5

Another trick that I would add that I found in another DIY:

You need something to hold the hub while removing the inner and outer chases while turning the jaw pullers. The easiet thing to do is take your wheel and lay it flat on the ground. Reinsert two lug bolts into it and thread into the hub to keep the hub from turning while you turn the jaw puller.

Thanks but I have a new hub and wheel bearing so once I remove the old rusted hub and wheel bearing im throwing them away

datnewnewm5 · 2nd July 2012, 04:08

my only problem right now is removing the axle from the hub. Its the original axle thats been in the car for 12 years. no wonder why its being such a PITA. Once I remove it the rest should be cake.

Georgia M5 · 2nd July 2012, 04:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by datnewnewm5

Thanks but I have a new hub and wheel bearing so once I remove the old rusted hub and wheel bearing im throwing them away

Why would you spend $100 x 2 on new hubs? It's not necessary.

If you already have the jaw pullers and bearing separators you have everything necessary to remove the inner and outer chases from the hub. There is nothing wrong with the hubs, only the bearings are bad.

You might think about taking the extra step to remove the chases from the original hub. It's only an extra ten minutes per hub. If you kept your receipts you can return the new hubs and get your money back.

datnewnewm5 · 2nd July 2012, 04:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Georgia M5

Why would you spend $100 x 2 on new hubs? It's not necessary.

If you already have the jaw pullers and bearing separators you have everything necessary to remove the inner and outer chases from the hub. There is nothing wrong with the hubs, only the bearings are bad.

You might think about taking the extra step to remove the chases from the original hub. It's only an extra ten minutes per hub. If you kept your receipts you can return the new hubs and get your money back.

I only bought one new hub. My brother stripped one of the lug holes on the hub so I have to replace it.

datnewnewm5 · 2nd July 2012, 04:18

thats the last time I let him near my car with an impact gun haha

Georgia M5 · 2nd July 2012, 04:18

Whether you use the old or new hubs, apply plenty of anti-size to the axel splines when you remount it.

If you still haven't got the hub off the axel yet, Advance and the other auto stores carry the PB Blaster and are still open depending on your time zone.