Rear axle bearing replaced (driver's side) UGH! *PICS* - Page 4 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums

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Old 2nd July 2012, 01:38   #31
datnewnewm5
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no. I still need to pull the axle out from the hub to expose the e14 bolts
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Old 2nd July 2012, 01:54   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datnewnewm5 View Post
no. I still need to pull the axle out from the hub to expose the e14 bolts
Removed. Duplicate post.
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Old 2nd July 2012, 01:57   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datnewnewm5 View Post
no. I still need to pull the axle out from the hub to expose the e14 bolts
Ok, that's right. The axel only moves a half inch to an inch, then stops. It doen't move all that much, but that movement gives enough clearance behind to get to the E14 bolts with the 3/8 and 1/4 E14 socket.

The end of the axel moves just enough to be flush with the hub hole (see first pic). Not much further. So, the axel doesn't come all the way out.

In your case you're saying that the axel hasn't moved that half-inch to inch, correct?


From the DIY:

Using the 3-Jaw Gear Puller, push the Axle inward until it stops. Do not force it further.

- Using the standard 3/8" E14 socket + appropriate extension(s)/universal joint(s), loosen the E14 bolts one turn or so, then STOP because if you continue, the socket will hit the Axle, and now you cannot remove the socket LOL.
- Here is the magic of the Industro 1/4" E14 socket: when used with 1/4" extension(s) it slides right in and allows you to remove the E14 bolts with ease. At first, I tried to undo the E14 from the start using this 1/4" socket but the 1/4" extension broke because the E14 bolt was tight from the factory! So use the 3/8" E14 socket to loosen the bolt, then switch to 1/4" E14 socket: this is the key to success.

- Remove the old bearing/hub combo as a unit and deal with it later.
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Old 2nd July 2012, 02:23   #34
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correct my axle has not moved at all. the bolts are still basically covered by the cv joint
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Old 2nd July 2012, 02:41   #35
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I didn't think my axel was going to move either then it moved about 1/2mm........20 solid hits later it was out.

If you remove the axel,the carrier will then hold the bearing and flange so that you can remove the flange from the bearing and then unbolt the bearing.

If you take off the bearing/flange you then have to find a way to hold it to remove the bearing(I thought it was easier to let the car hold it for me).

Then when you reassemble the carrier will hold the bearing so that you can press the flange back into the new bearing(I used a harbor freight front wheel bearing remover to do this).
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Old 2nd July 2012, 02:50   #36
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did you use a dead blow hammer or a regular one
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Old 2nd July 2012, 03:09   #37
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4lb steel.........5 or 6 would have worked better with the drift I used.

Deadblow I have wouldn't have done crap.
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Old 2nd July 2012, 03:20   #38
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Im using a 3/4" steel punch. do you think that will work?
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Old 2nd July 2012, 03:43   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datnewnewm5 View Post
correct my axle has not moved at all. the bolts are still basically covered by the cv joint
I would still get the PB Blaster and leave it on overnight, whether you use the 3 jaw puller or hammer method.

Some people also had success with moving the wheel carrier (suspension) up a bit using a jack.
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Old 2nd July 2012, 03:45   #40
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I would still get the PB Blaster and leave it on overnight, whether you use the 3 jaw puller or hammer method.

Some people also had success with moving the wheel carrier (suspension) up a bit using a jack.
yup im currently using pb blaster and have a bottle jack on the wheel carrier
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