Anyone know how to replace the "LEFT SUCKING JET PUMP" in the fuel tank of a 2000 M5? I've pretty much narrowed my problem down to this component, but can find no info as to how to get to it.
dmeester
OBD aka "secret menu" test 14 can confirm a bad sender/siphon/pump. Member jclyman has posted on this in the past. If you do the pump, you'll probably want to do the rubber seal as well. RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 Fuel pump and fuel level sensor
MAIN FUEL PUMP ....removal.
in that case...
remove the back seat,give it a tug and you can pull it out , then you see a rubber seal with wires hanging out. pull the seal out. cut the sound isolation with a craftsknife. then you will see a black plate with 3 screws in there. remove those, take plate off. then you will see the top part off the pump (under NR 8), remove the wire thing(NR8), remove the fuel line by pusching down en press the sides(NEXT TO nr8), it will click and come off easy.(NOTE get a ragg to capture some left fuel in the fuelline..fuel is still under pressure at that point so it will spray a bit, so take your time and be carefull) once thats done you will see a metal ring that holds the pump in place (NR4). take a screwdriver or something and a rubber hammer, and tap the ring until its loose. unscrew it (left is loose). now the top off the fuelpump is loose. take a screwdriver and pry it out. now the top is off, and you can see in the tank.
take it out, on the top part that you just pryed out is the floaterdevice.. the pump itself is still in the tank. remove the 2 wires a black and yellow one(iff you follow the fuel line on the pic you see 2 square thing on the pump.. those are the wires). remember witch goes where. then take the fuelpump in the tank, on the sides there are 2 plastic leavers(you can see the leavers on the pic (NR1). press them and then the pump will come out easy. job done.
reinstall..
take the new pump, place it in the tank, there's only one way so its easy. make sure you hear a click fron the leavers (NR1). then the fuelpump is secured in place. put the black and yellow wires back on the pump. then take the top off the pump(floaterdevice whereNR8 goes in too) )and put it in half way. then take the rubber seal and place it in the hole off the tank where the seal must go..(so not on the pump. it will look like the seal is to big. you have to press it in nicely. once its in it will stay there.now take the top off the pump and stick it in further.
on top off the floaingdevice theres a flat spot that needs to be allined to fit perfect. when you put it in you need to twist your hand a bit too the right and it will fit in nicely...DONT PRESS HARD, iff its doesnt go smooth you need more twist .it has to go in without restrictions..
its a bit playing with that thing..
then press the top in to the rubber seal,when its in all the way and fitted nicely, take the big iron ring(NR4) and screw it on there. tap with rubber hammer again so its locked tight.
put the fuelline back on(next to nr8), put the wires back on(nr8),put the black iron plate with 3 screws back on. place the sound isolation back on, put the rubber seal where the wires come out back in, place the seat back in...
half hour job -1 hour the first timehiha
just dont hurry and take a look at everything your going to do..
done..
for the othersides syphonp pump 90% the same procedure..even more easy because there's more room..
start the car 2 times to get fuel pressure and off you go :goldcup:
pic to make it simple ..
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E.../M5-S62/LHD/M/1999/february/browse/fuel_supply/fuel_pump_and_fuel_level_sensor/
hope it helps a bit,good luck
in that case...
remove the back seat,give it a tug and you can pull it out , then you see a rubber seal with wires hanging out. pull the seal out. cut the sound isolation with a craftsknife. then you will see a black plate with 3 screws in there. remove those, take plate off. then you will see the top part off the pump (under NR 8), remove the wire thing(NR8), remove the fuel line by pusching down en press the sides(NEXT TO nr8), it will click and come off easy.(NOTE get a ragg to capture some left fuel in the fuelline..fuel is still under pressure at that point so it will spray a bit, so take your time and be carefull) once thats done you will see a metal ring that holds the pump in place (NR4). take a screwdriver or something and a rubber hammer, and tap the ring until its loose. unscrew it (left is loose). now the top off the fuelpump is loose. take a screwdriver and pry it out. now the top is off, and you can see in the tank.
take it out, on the top part that you just pryed out is the floaterdevice.. the pump itself is still in the tank. remove the 2 wires a black and yellow one(iff you follow the fuel line on the pic you see 2 square thing on the pump.. those are the wires). remember witch goes where. then take the fuelpump in the tank, on the sides there are 2 plastic leavers(you can see the leavers on the pic (NR1). press them and then the pump will come out easy. job done.
reinstall..
take the new pump, place it in the tank, there's only one way so its easy. make sure you hear a click fron the leavers (NR1). then the fuelpump is secured in place. put the black and yellow wires back on the pump. then take the top off the pump(floaterdevice whereNR8 goes in too) )and put it in half way. then take the rubber seal and place it in the hole off the tank where the seal must go..(so not on the pump. it will look like the seal is to big. you have to press it in nicely. once its in it will stay there.now take the top off the pump and stick it in further.
on top off the floaingdevice theres a flat spot that needs to be allined to fit perfect. when you put it in you need to twist your hand a bit too the right and it will fit in nicely...DONT PRESS HARD, iff its doesnt go smooth you need more twist .it has to go in without restrictions..
its a bit playing with that thing..
then press the top in to the rubber seal,when its in all the way and fitted nicely, take the big iron ring(NR4) and screw it on there. tap with rubber hammer again so its locked tight.
put the fuelline back on(next to nr8), put the wires back on(nr8),put the black iron plate with 3 screws back on. place the sound isolation back on, put the rubber seal where the wires come out back in, place the seat back in...
half hour job -1 hour the first timehiha
just dont hurry and take a look at everything your going to do..
done..
for the othersides syphonp pump 90% the same procedure..even more easy because there's more room..
start the car 2 times to get fuel pressure and off you go :goldcup:
pic to make it simple ..
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E.../M5-S62/LHD/M/1999/february/browse/fuel_supply/fuel_pump_and_fuel_level_sensor/
hope it helps a bit,good luck
LEFT SUCKING JET PUMP... removal.
better known as second fuel pump, fuelpump driverside, syphon pump.
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E.../M5-S62/LHD/M/1999/february/browse/fuel_supply/fuel_pump_and_fuel_level_sensor/
remove backseat, you'll see a rubber with wires coming out. pull the rubber out. cut the sound isolation with crafts knife. then you will see a black plate with 3 screws in. remove those. then unhook the wires. cut off the hose clamp. remove hose. remove the metal ring nr4 ,
get a screwdriver and rubber hammer and tap it untill it comes loose.(left loose). pry the top off the fuel sensor out NR6.
take it out, undo nr7 its clicks right off.
its nr7 you need to replace . thats the pump.
i'm not sure iff the whole part comes out or iff you need to take only the pump out and let the hoses in the tank..
assuming you can take the hole thing out, pull it out , replace it , click nr 7 back in nr6, reseat the seal in the tank ,put nr6 back in without restrictions again..put nr4 back on , attach fuelhose and wires again put the black plate wit 3 screws back on,put the sound isolation back on,put the rubber seal with wires coming trough back in, put seat back in and done..:goldcup:
better known as second fuel pump, fuelpump driverside, syphon pump.
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E.../M5-S62/LHD/M/1999/february/browse/fuel_supply/fuel_pump_and_fuel_level_sensor/
remove backseat, you'll see a rubber with wires coming out. pull the rubber out. cut the sound isolation with crafts knife. then you will see a black plate with 3 screws in. remove those. then unhook the wires. cut off the hose clamp. remove hose. remove the metal ring nr4 ,
get a screwdriver and rubber hammer and tap it untill it comes loose.(left loose). pry the top off the fuel sensor out NR6.
take it out, undo nr7 its clicks right off.
its nr7 you need to replace . thats the pump.
i'm not sure iff the whole part comes out or iff you need to take only the pump out and let the hoses in the tank..
assuming you can take the hole thing out, pull it out , replace it , click nr 7 back in nr6, reseat the seal in the tank ,put nr6 back in without restrictions again..put nr4 back on , attach fuelhose and wires again put the black plate wit 3 screws back on,put the sound isolation back on,put the rubber seal with wires coming trough back in, put seat back in and done..:goldcup:
i know i know, but the syphon pump is located inside the fuel tank.. thats why you have to take it apart again
the syphon pump nr7 clicks on the sensor nr6, but you have to remove nr6 to get to nr7.:grinyes:
i'm in the same mess by the way.. thats why i know it..i'm replacing my syphon pump next week. i also replaced everything else
once on 1/4 off a tank it dies on me.
the syphon pump nr7 clicks on the sensor nr6, but you have to remove nr6 to get to nr7.:grinyes:
i'm in the same mess by the way.. thats why i know it..i'm replacing my syphon pump next week. i also replaced everything else
once on 1/4 off a tank it dies on me.
well too make it simple there's two buttons on your instrumentcluster.
put ignition in position 1, press the right button on the cluster. it will say check control ok, dont let loose . it will say then test01
then go to test 14 by repeatetly pressing the right button. once on test14 , press the left button (the one your miles counter resets) then it will say lock. press it as many times as the total amount off your vin numbers are(for instance.. vinnr dk 15004, then you count the numbers,1+5+0+0+4=10) press 10 times the left button, then the cluster will be unlocked, and you will see the diag.
here's the full explenation..
<TABLE class=tborder id=post14749 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ffffff 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: #ffffff 0px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #ffffff 1px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ffffff 0px solid" width=175></TD><TD class=alt1 id=td_post_14749 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ffffff 1px solid"><!-- icon and title -->
![Image]()
<HR style="COLOR: #ffffff; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --><!-- google_ad_section_start -->As promised, here are the instructions on how to get to the "Test Modes" of the OBC. I didn't run into any trouble, but as always, do this at your own risk BMW apparently doesn't want you to play with this, so most modes are locked. Once you unlock them, they remain unlocked, until you bring in your car for service, or explicitly lock them yourself.
UNLOCK PROCEDURE:
1) Key to ignition pos 2 (no need to start engine).
2) Fasten the seat belt to get rid of the "Fasten Seat Belt" message.not nessecary..
3) Press the right button on the instrument panel, and hold it until "TEST-NR. 01" comes up (5 to 10 seconds).
4) Press the left button on the instrument panel, and the vehicle id comes up (last 7 digits of VIN).
5) Add up the last 5 digits to get the "unlock code", e.g. the unlock code for "AB12345" would be 15 (1+2+3+4+5).
6) Repeatedly press the right button until "TEST-NR. 19" appears.
7) Press left button -> "LOCK : ON"
8) Repeatedly press left button until "LOCK : xx" appears, where "xx" is your unlock code.
9. Press the right button. All modes are unlocked now.
NAVIGATING BETWEEN TESTS AND PERFORMING THEM:
- Follow steps 1) to 3) of the "UNLOCK PROCEDURE" to enter test mode.
- Use the right button to step from test to test.
- Press the left button to enter a test and cycle between modes within a test.
- Press and hold the right button to exit test mode (turning the key to 0 works as well).
Here is what I know about the various test modes:
2) Instrument test: Cute light show in the instrument panel. Ever wanted to see the speedo show 190 without having to leave the garage?
3) Don't know.
4) Current fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and in liters per hour.
5) Average fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and range.
6) Current fuel levels in left tank, right tank, and total.
7) Engine temperature (not sure where measured), engine RPM, and outside temperature.
8) Current speed in kilometers per hour.
9) Battery voltage.
10) Country.
11) Don't know.
12) Not sure what these are. Could be average speed used to calculate arrival time for distance to destination set in OBC?
13) Sound test. Goes through the various gong sounds.
14) Don't know. Could be some diagnostic codes.
15) DOn't know. Looks like a real-time readout of some registers.
16) Oil temperature. I sometimes get a bogus -48 degrees C when the engine is not running. Corrects itself when the engine is on.
17) Don't know.
18) Doesn't do anything.
19) Locking & unlocking of the test modes.
20) Don't know.
21) Don't know. This test asks you "RESET?". Let me know what it does, if you're brave enough to try it. I'd recommend to stay clear, though.
Have fun.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
i order my part trough a friend who has a performance shop specialized in ///m cars. he orders them from bmw, so they are genuine parts.
the syphon pump will cost about50-60$ at the dealer so no worry ordering it from a dealer in this case.or google the part number and maybe there are vendors who have it in stock that can ship them too you.. tischer bmw for instance . they are board sponsors here and use original bmw parts.
there are not many parts to be found aftermarket/racing for the fuel system on a m5, so oem is the best solution i guess.
put ignition in position 1, press the right button on the cluster. it will say check control ok, dont let loose . it will say then test01
then go to test 14 by repeatetly pressing the right button. once on test14 , press the left button (the one your miles counter resets) then it will say lock. press it as many times as the total amount off your vin numbers are(for instance.. vinnr dk 15004, then you count the numbers,1+5+0+0+4=10) press 10 times the left button, then the cluster will be unlocked, and you will see the diag.
here's the full explenation..
<TABLE class=tborder id=post14749 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ffffff 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: #ffffff 0px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #ffffff 1px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ffffff 0px solid" width=175></TD><TD class=alt1 id=td_post_14749 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ffffff 1px solid"><!-- icon and title -->
<HR style="COLOR: #ffffff; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --><!-- google_ad_section_start -->As promised, here are the instructions on how to get to the "Test Modes" of the OBC. I didn't run into any trouble, but as always, do this at your own risk
BMW apparently doesn't want you to play with this, so most modes are locked. Once you unlock them, they remain unlocked, until you bring in your car for service, or explicitly lock them yourself.UNLOCK PROCEDURE:
1) Key to ignition pos 2 (no need to start engine).
2) Fasten the seat belt to get rid of the "Fasten Seat Belt" message.not nessecary..
3) Press the right button on the instrument panel, and hold it until "TEST-NR. 01" comes up (5 to 10 seconds).
4) Press the left button on the instrument panel, and the vehicle id comes up (last 7 digits of VIN).
5) Add up the last 5 digits to get the "unlock code", e.g. the unlock code for "AB12345" would be 15 (1+2+3+4+5).
6) Repeatedly press the right button until "TEST-NR. 19" appears.
7) Press left button -> "LOCK : ON"
8) Repeatedly press left button until "LOCK : xx" appears, where "xx" is your unlock code.
9. Press the right button. All modes are unlocked now.
NAVIGATING BETWEEN TESTS AND PERFORMING THEM:
- Follow steps 1) to 3) of the "UNLOCK PROCEDURE" to enter test mode.
- Use the right button to step from test to test.
- Press the left button to enter a test and cycle between modes within a test.
- Press and hold the right button to exit test mode (turning the key to 0 works as well).
Here is what I know about the various test modes:
2) Instrument test: Cute light show in the instrument panel. Ever wanted to see the speedo show 190 without having to leave the garage?
3) Don't know.
4) Current fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and in liters per hour.
5) Average fuel consumption in liters per 100 kilometers and range.
6) Current fuel levels in left tank, right tank, and total.
7) Engine temperature (not sure where measured), engine RPM, and outside temperature.
8) Current speed in kilometers per hour.
9) Battery voltage.
10) Country.
11) Don't know.
12) Not sure what these are. Could be average speed used to calculate arrival time for distance to destination set in OBC?
13) Sound test. Goes through the various gong sounds.
14) Don't know. Could be some diagnostic codes.
15) DOn't know. Looks like a real-time readout of some registers.
16) Oil temperature. I sometimes get a bogus -48 degrees C when the engine is not running. Corrects itself when the engine is on.
17) Don't know.
18) Doesn't do anything.
19) Locking & unlocking of the test modes.
20) Don't know.
21) Don't know. This test asks you "RESET?". Let me know what it does, if you're brave enough to try it. I'd recommend to stay clear, though.
Have fun.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
i order my part trough a friend who has a performance shop specialized in ///m cars. he orders them from bmw, so they are genuine parts.
the syphon pump will cost about50-60$ at the dealer so no worry ordering it from a dealer in this case.or google the part number and maybe there are vendors who have it in stock that can ship them too you.. tischer bmw for instance . they are board sponsors here and use original bmw parts.
there are not many parts to be found aftermarket/racing for the fuel system on a m5, so oem is the best solution i guess.
small update on the left sucking jet pump..dmeester
i changed mine this afternoon, and i have too edit the how to ,on the previous page...:confused3
here ' comes the bad part...
both pumps/floaters have to come out again :grrrrr: when you want to replace the left sucking jet pump..
left sucking jet pump sits in the drivers side, main pump sits in the passengers side,
so you have to take the main pump out like on the how to, and you have to take out the driver side pump out like in the how to also.
but combined in this case
the left sucking jet pump runs from driverside trough the tanks up to the passengersside.
there it clicks in to a piece that holds the pipes from the sucking jet pump down..right next to the main pump.
in other words, remove the main fuel pump( passengers side)to get to the end off the left sucking jet pump and disconnected, then open up the driversside to get the whole thing out there. disconnect the floater from the left sucking jet pump, pull out the whole left sucking jet pump, take the new one and wriggle it until it comes out in the other tank.(BMW TIS says you have to drain the tanks from fuel) that i didn't do BUT, MAKE SURE YOU GROUND YOURSELF FIRST BEFORE YOU PUT YOUR HAND IN TOO THE FUEL TANK.. i can t say it loud enough.. a spark can start a inferno you dont want too see..
so wriggle it trough, and then you have to click it in too a special place right next too where the main fuelpump has to go. make sure you hear the click . then put the main fuelpump back in following the how to on the previous page.
connect the left sucking jet pump too its floater on the driversside, and again follow the procedure to mount everything again like in the how to.
in my case , for some odd reason the end off the left sucking jet pump, was disconnected and the end came above the fuel level once 1/4 off a tank was reached..really strange because i can't remember that i even touched that pipe.
anyway i changed the whole damn thing , because i ordered it anyway.
not that hard at all, just allot off work.. i did it with a friend each a side,and in a half hour we where done and ready to roll again.
i changed mine this afternoon, and i have too edit the how to ,on the previous page...:confused3
here ' comes the bad part...
both pumps/floaters have to come out again :grrrrr: when you want to replace the left sucking jet pump..
left sucking jet pump sits in the drivers side, main pump sits in the passengers side,
so you have to take the main pump out like on the how to, and you have to take out the driver side pump out like in the how to also.
but combined in this case
the left sucking jet pump runs from driverside trough the tanks up to the passengersside.
there it clicks in to a piece that holds the pipes from the sucking jet pump down..right next to the main pump.
in other words, remove the main fuel pump( passengers side)to get to the end off the left sucking jet pump and disconnected, then open up the driversside to get the whole thing out there. disconnect the floater from the left sucking jet pump, pull out the whole left sucking jet pump, take the new one and wriggle it until it comes out in the other tank.(BMW TIS says you have to drain the tanks from fuel) that i didn't do BUT, MAKE SURE YOU GROUND YOURSELF FIRST BEFORE YOU PUT YOUR HAND IN TOO THE FUEL TANK.. i can t say it loud enough.. a spark can start a inferno you dont want too see..
so wriggle it trough, and then you have to click it in too a special place right next too where the main fuelpump has to go. make sure you hear the click . then put the main fuelpump back in following the how to on the previous page.
connect the left sucking jet pump too its floater on the driversside, and again follow the procedure to mount everything again like in the how to.
in my case , for some odd reason the end off the left sucking jet pump, was disconnected and the end came above the fuel level once 1/4 off a tank was reached..really strange because i can't remember that i even touched that pipe.
anyway i changed the whole damn thing , because i ordered it anyway.
not that hard at all, just allot off work.. i did it with a friend each a side,and in a half hour we where done and ready to roll again.
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