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post #1 of 22 Old 1st April 2009, 04:18 AM Thread Starter
RUFM5
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AC not blowing cold.

The AC temps came to a point where I needed a R134 fill up. It is now a few months later and I am back with AC temps not being as cold as usual. Does anyone know of any common components that may leak? Has anyone used any stop leaks that work?

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post #2 of 22 Old 1st April 2009, 05:14 PM
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In my previous 02' M5 I had the same problem. It turned out the schrader valves in the charging ports were leaking.
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post #3 of 22 Old 1st April 2009, 05:20 PM
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I have the same issue in my 02. There is a leak somewhere... so every summer it cost me $45 for a refill.

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post #4 of 22 Old 1st April 2009, 06:33 PM
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Could be a hole in the heat exchanger rad or quite common is the rubber 'o' rings in the screw in connector joints perish with time and start to leak(Speaking here with experience of a leaking 911 system, but guess BMW AC system has very similar components.)

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post #5 of 22 Old 1st April 2009, 11:18 PM
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Air Con gas leak


There are two schrader valves on the air conditioning system, one on the low side and one on the high side. One usually has a blue cap and the other a red cap. They are usually found close together and close to the coolant reservoir(s) under the hood.

Here's an image of a blue one. Other than tightening these schrader valves, I would not recommend fiddling with them-leave it to an air conditioning expert.

The ports are a little more inaccessible, where the in (low) and out (high) pressure lines connect to the compressor, which itself is usually well down in the engine bay, just like the alternator.

The low pressure line runs from the evaporator behind the instrument panel in the car to the condenser at the front of the car, near the radiator, back to the compressor, where the pressure is increased and the gas enters the high pressure line, back to the evaporator.

Hope this helps.

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post #6 of 22 Old 2nd April 2009, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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I checked the PSI and it is about 35. I noticed that the AC temps are fine if I use the air recirculation button but when recirc is disabled(air enters from cabin filters) the AC temps increase and the air flow from the vents decrease. Any ideas? Also what is the function of the AC button with an "a" and circle around it...I assume it is automatic air recirculation but is there a sensor to detect pollution?

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post #7 of 22 Old 2nd April 2009, 05:56 PM
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When was the last time that you replaced the microfilters? If they are very dirty, they will definitely affect a/c operation.

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post #8 of 22 Old 3rd April 2009, 10:10 PM
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Do you notice whether the a/c temp rises when the car comes to a stop at a red light then cools off again when you accelerate? (Not in recirc mode)

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post #9 of 22 Old 4th April 2009, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUFM5 View Post
I checked the PSI and it is about 35. I noticed that the AC temps are fine if I use the air recirculation button but when recirc is disabled(air enters from cabin filters) the AC temps increase and the air flow from the vents decrease. Any ideas? Also what is the function of the AC button with an "a" and circle around it...I assume it is automatic air recirculation but is there a sensor to detect pollution?
Automatic re-circ has nothing to do with pollution - it is a simple timed cycle to prevent a buildup of humidity. Your other choices are manual re-circ or off. An increase in air temp with re-circ off is completely normal since the incoming air is warmer.

As for diagnosis, your best bet is to go to a shop that can inject a dye into the system and then use a blacklight to determine the leak point. Anything other than that is pure guessing as R-134 will dissipate faster than you can detect it.

d-
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post #10 of 22 Old 4th April 2009, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasABaker View Post
Automatic re-circ has nothing to do with pollution - it is a simple timed cycle to prevent a buildup of humidity. Your other choices are manual re-circ or off. An increase in air temp with re-circ off is completely normal since the incoming air is warmer.

As for diagnosis, your best bet is to go to a shop that can inject a dye into the system and then use a blacklight to determine the leak point. Anything other than that is pure guessing as R-134 will dissipate faster than you can detect it.

d-
actually there is a sensor that detects some sort of pollutants in the exterior air entering the vehicle... i was reading it in the owners manual not even 2 hours ago...

the "A" with the circle means that air will be pulled from the exterior of the car until undesired pollutants are detected in the exterior air, then the flaps will close and air will be recirculated until those pollutants are no longer detected... at which point air will be pulled from the exterior of the vehicle again....

the circle without the "A" means air will be continuously recirculated within the cabin no matter what...
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