I did search this, but need a little more info.....
I am reading that it is better to have the dealership do this since it is messy and very difficult to get all of the air pockets/old fluid out. I have also read to ONLY us BMW fluid, no problem, I am down with that.
My issue is both of the BMW dealerships in Columbus have absolutely no idea what they are doing. I called both MAG and Kelley BMW and asked them about a radiator flush, $139+tax at both places, not too bad. But when I asked them what their method was for flushing, the SA had no clue. I asked if they flushed it with a machine or just pulled the drain plugs and then filled it back up? They BOTH had no clue, not very comforting. The guy at Kelley later in the conversation said "We definitely do not use a machine."
Should I keep looking for an Indy in Columbus? Is the "flushing machine" something I just made up in my head?
But to answer your question..... IMHO I have always just drained and filled (no flush). Now when I say drain, I mean the rad AND the block plugs on both sides.
It's a bit of a pain but I enjoy it, plus I then have the satisfaction of knowing it's been done right.
Good Luck.
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I did search this, but need a little more info.....
I am reading that it is better to have the dealership do this since it is messy and very difficult to get all of the air pockets/old fluid out. I have also read to ONLY us BMW fluid, no problem, I am down with that.
My issue is both of the BMW dealerships in Columbus have absolutely no idea what they are doing. I called both MAG and Kelley BMW and asked them about a radiator flush, $139+tax at both places, not too bad. But when I asked them what their method was for flushing, the SA had no clue. I asked if they flushed it with a machine or just pulled the drain plugs and then filled it back up? They BOTH had no clue, not very comforting. The guy at Kelley later in the conversation said "We definitely do not use a machine."
Should I keep looking for an Indy in Columbus? Is the "flushing machine" something I just made up in my head?
Not unusual the SA doesn't know. Ask to speak to the tech who would do the job. If he can't satisfy you, run, don't walk, from the dealership.
I don't think it is rocket science to flush the system, just a little messy. Any competent indy who works on BMW's should be able to handle this.
Regards,
Jerry
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'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
I usually do ALL of my own work, I just read some of the threads on here about air pockets and ruining an engine. Not that an M5 coolant system us different from my Accord system, I just don't want to take any chances. So I thought maybe I should just come off of $140 and pay the dealership to do a true FLUSH and not just a drain and fill like I can do at home. But it looks like they do not do a true flush anyway, so DIY maybe in my future....
Follow the TIS instructions (posted here somewhere) for bleeding the cooling system and you'll be fine. It isn't rocket science, and the M5 engine is no different than others, except it produces more energy and therefore hotspots are more of an issue.
dear lord, you guys swear you were talking about changing rod bearings... its antifreeze, lol. drain the radiator, the drain the block on both sides. mix the coolant 50/50, turn the ignition on and set the heater to minimum speed/max temp. slowly pour the coolant in till it reaches to almost the top of the expansion tank. start it up and get it up to operating temp so the t-stat opens. let it cool back down and then re-check the level. there is also a vent screw in a line under the drivers side microfilter housing if you really want to be sure there is no air pockets.