Anyone solve the 3k Vibration? - Page 32

E55AMG2 · 23rd February 2011, 00:22

Mine isnt the same thing. I think it's a front axle issue...prob a CV boot. it only happens at an indicated 79-81mph in 5th (~3k).

roverguy10 · 23rd February 2011, 02:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by doc$holliday

Kosmo, Roverguy and Nightkrawler,

I'm working on eliminating that whine/howl/wah-wah issue with the oil filter housing right now. From what I read on pages 9 and 10 of this thread (plus roverguy's recent post), you were all able to minimize the whine. What is the best solution? I had replaced the toasted bushing of the oil filter housing using one of the DIY threads and that is when the whine started. If I remove the nuts and washers that hold the housing to the bushings and just let it sit there (with the lower flange in place on lower bushing), it is still present.

Nightkrawler, you said something about washing out the oil filter housing??? So you completely removed it from the car and used some sort of cleaner on it? Brake parts cleaner, or something else?

Did either of you other guys do that? I'm trying to figure out a good way to make the housing touch the chassis as I think that bottom bolt used to rub the chassis with those old worn out bushings.

Thanks fellas!

SP

I would check the routing of the housing as well to ensure there are no kinks or other sports where it can interfere with the flow or transmit vibrations. As for the DIY, if you bolt the housing using a standard bolt no matter how many rubber washers you use there will always be a minimum path for vibrations to travel from the housing to the frame. I created a mount using some stock rubber and my drill presswhere instead of the bolts being inline with rubber in between mine are offset which raised the housing slightly and moved it slightly away from the frame mounts.

roverguy10 · 23rd February 2011, 03:26

Here is what I built, I used M6 cap head machine screws because I prefer allen heads in tight spaces and the OEM mounts are M6, and SANTOPRENE for the rubber material
a) because I had some lying around
b) it machines like plastic
c) it has better dampening and temperatureproperties.

I can send you the machinist drawings if you'd like, just PM me with your email.

doc$holliday · 26th February 2011, 21:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by roverguy10

I would check the routing of the housing as well to ensure there are no kinks or other sports where it can interfere with the flow or transmit vibrations. As for the DIY, if you bolt the housing using a standard bolt no matter how many rubber washers you use there will always be a minimum path for vibrations to travel from the housing to the frame. I created a mount using some stock rubber and my drill presswhere instead of the bolts being inline with rubber in between mine are offset which raised the housing slightly and moved it slightly away from the frame mounts.

You are absolutely right, RoverGuy!! Although I removed the nuts and washers, I left the bolts in place. When the housing sat in the lower gasket, it did still make some contact with the bolts and the noise was still present. Today I finally got a moment to remove the bolts and just let the housing sit in the lower gasket while resting on a couple of rubber washers that I zip-tied in place - PRESTO!! Noise is 95% gone, and that last 5% may be just the ringing still in my ears from hearing it so much the past few weeks.

I went from this (with both nuts removed prior to test drive):

to this (no comments on the oil I just spilled during this morning's oil change, I will clean it LOL):

I'm not sure how everyone who did their own DIY on the oil housing bushings has evaded this issue but perhaps it is different for every Beast. I now am 100% certain I need one of the following permanent solutions:

a) buy OEM bushings despite the huge price tag
b) find nylon hex bolts that match the 6mm-1.0 x 30mm steel ones (this is a theory, I don't know if anyone else tried this or even if Home Deep carries them)
c) get one of the mechanical engineers at work to fab up one like yours

thanks again for your insight,

SP

roverguy10 · 28th February 2011, 03:19

Nylon might work but it will not dampen vibrations as well as rubber or synthetic rubber. Part of it might still be your oil lines, as others have mentioned they run through/near one engine mount. I'm curious on how this noise comes about from the standpoint of how the oil system flows, but that is a research thing to tackle after I finish moving and get back settled in...

btw sorry on the delay for those 3D files I was without internet access minus the crackberry for a couple of days

DDSLT5 · 17th May 2011, 04:10

Hmmm. Interesting. I've got a brand new vibration on my car - it is most prominent at 2000 rpm, but really nowhere else. It is very slight - only noticeable in the gas pedal really - maybe ever so slightly in the shifter. I've never had ANY vibration in the past. The car has 300,000 km on it. I recently ran her up to 7000 rpm in 4th and 5th racing a corvette, and since then, I've had the vibration. I'm a little concerned it might be a bottom end issue (bearing letting loose), but no rod knock present, and only very slight vibration present at the one rpm range. So - even though I've replaced one of the oil filter housing bolts with OEM already - I'll check this theory tonight, and report back here. It is super annoying as I've had over 300K km of vibration free driving thus far - so this vibration just isn't acceptable in my book! Will report back once I loosen off the oil filter housing.

DDSLT5 · 17th May 2011, 05:09

Okay guys - so, I tested the vibration, just to ensure I knew the feel. Then, removed the two nuts holding down on top, and popped it out from the lower grommet. VOILA! No Vibration!!! So, upon examination, it is clear that the top rubber mount has distorted over time, and this has allowed the bottom connection to the flex lines (with the big bolt) to touch the strut tower. I tried putting a piece of rubber between this bolt and the tower, and this has helped, but the vibration is still there. I'm ordering a new mount from BMW Parts and BMW Accessories | Bavarian Autosport right now - which will solve the issue entirely. Back to smooth motoring - I'll report back when she turns 400K!

E39 M5 · 11th September 2011, 16:58

i'v had and still got this problem even after changing

Flywheel and Clutch OE LUK
Guibo
Centre prop bearing
Main diff seal
Rear Crank seal
Thermostat
New Rear Tyres
New oils - Gearbox, Diff, Engine

its not as bad no but its still there, my old flywheel was covered in oil so this might have made it worse

anyway still on the hunt and i'm determined to find out along with my mechanic, he actually said leave the car with him for a week and he'll have it sussed.

might have to take him up on that if i cant get to the bottom of it!!

will keep you guys updated

roverguy10 · 11th September 2011, 17:55

check the oil filter housing bolts. Else, it could be exhaust mounts. this seems to be a e39-ism that just comes with the car

E39 M5 · 11th September 2011, 18:12

yeh i'll check the oil filter housing bolts and see if that makes a difference and will check the exhaust mounts and gearbox mounts

its an Fu*kin joke tbh, this is my second E39 M5 and last one was fine this one isn't

which makes me more determind to find the problem

i'll get to the bottom of it seems like everyone else has givin up, hope i dont end up like that lol