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Timmay77's stereo build (complete aftermarket system)

354K views 612 replies 78 participants last post by  DennisCooper 
#1 · (Edited)
I am in the process of tearing out EVERYTHING from my 01 M5 and putting a complete aftermarket system in. I will update this thread as things progress. Let's start with the parts list of the new stuff...

Alpine IVA-W505 - 7" 2 din multimedia station
Alpine NVE-P1 - removable navigation drive (no vss needed)
Alpine PXA-H100 - Imprint module
Alpine DHA-S680 - DVD/CD Changer
Alpine SPX-17REF - 6.5" component set
Alpine SPS-500 - 5.25" co-axial rear fill
Alpine SWR-1242D (2) - 12" DVC 4 ohm subwoofer
Memphis Audio 16-MCD1000 - 1100x1 @ 1 ohm sub amp
Memphis Audio 16-MCA2004 - 4 channel amp

Pac TR7 - Video bypass module (illegal I know, I don't want to hear it :byee55amg)
PAC SWI-JACK - steering wheel control module

Mounting kit for deck from Ebay
eBay Motors: BMW 5 series E39 double din bezel &complete install-kit (item 360119388261 end time Jan-04-09 12:07:28 PST)=

Now for some pictures....

Hole in dash where the Nav monitor used to be.....


Rear deck removed, speaker for the PDC. (Thanks DouglasABaker)


Subwoofer location. These are actually mounted from the bottom, but the screws have to be removed from the top.


GPS antenna (I think) on drivers side under the rear deck


Radio antenna (I think) in the drivers side rear pillar


Driver's side rear speaker loaction


Passenger's side rear speaker pod. Much larger than I thought they would be.



Trunk after my DSP Amp, Radio module, and CD changer were removed.


Wiring harness where I am going to tap into the speaker wires.
 
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#2 ·
I'd seriously Dynamat the trunk if you are going to run a 12" DVC sub at 1 Ohm impedance. Lots and lots of resonance everywhere.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Have you thought of using an isobarik enclosure? You will have no trunk space left if you run two 12's in a standard sealed enclosure. You might as well run them free air using the trunk as the enclosure.

I'm interested to see your build.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I will have plenty of trunk space left, I only need 2 sqft. I am going to do a wedge shaped box, kind of, with the woofers facing at an angle up towards the back deck and at the rear seats. I am going to seal off the back of the trunk from the area the woofers are firing. I am going to mount the woofers magnet out and reverse their polarity just for the heck of it. I removed the ski bag and the door in the center arm rest. I can put the center arm rest down to look at the subs or allow more sound into the cabin. This is what I did in my Cabrio, resulting in AWSOME bass response, for a convertibel at least. I may put a black light or something in there to light it up, haven't thought that far out yet.....
 
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#9 · (Edited)
So I did some more work today. I got the driver's door panel off. Thanks to the guy's at BSW and their youtube videos, this was too easy. I took the panel off, remove the OEM pod and tweeter and mounted my "Pener baffle" to fit my 6.5" woofer. I need to make a bracket to hold my tweeter, which is no big deal. I then started to take the molding apart in the doorway to run cables from the dash to the trunk. That is a complete pain. I can not seem to get the panel off that hold the hood release/dead pedal/trunk pop. I worked on that thing for 30 min..... Anyone have any ideas?

Anyway, pics...



Inside of the door.




Factory pod next to the "Pener baffle"




"Pener baffle" mounted




OEM tweeter removed

 
#11 ·
I took the panel off, remove the OEM pod and tweeter and mounted my "Pener baffle" to fit my 6.5" woofer....I then started to take the molding apart in the doorway to run cables from the dash to the trunk. That is a complete pain. I can not seem to get the panel off that hold the hood release/dead pedal/trunk pop. I worked on that thing for 30 min..... Anyone have any ideas?

A
Timmay:

Did you make your Pener baffles yourself? If so, where did you get the pattern?

There is a screw that holds the hood release lever in that has to be removed before the panel will give. It's in the BSW videos. If you already have unscrewed that screw, then I don't know what's preventing the panel from popping off.
 
#17 ·
The mounting kit showed up at the house last night. Pretty well constructed, but the texture/color doesn't really match. I am going to try and find same soft leather and cover it to try to match my extended leather dash. Another member already did this, but, *uhem*, has yet to send me the pics he promised, *uhem*......:byee55amg He told me he was pretty busy with work , I understand.....

Anyway, I did a dry fit. The faceplate fits perfect, just needs some cosmetic work.






Here is the cage for the radio (bottom) and the plate that will cover the whole in the hvac system I need to cut away to make room for the deck. Very nicely made I think.....



I will be starting surgeory on the hvac duct Sat afternoon. My new Alpine equipment will be here Tuesday, so this is all just prep work. My steering wheel control module should be here tomorrow, so I will try to get that wired up and ready for Tues. I will probably work on the Sub box this weekend too.
 
#21 ·
Ugh I need to get my *** in gear and start the same project. I too am mostly in it for the updated nav but IMO the sound needs improvement as well. I am anxious to see what you come up with for a box. This is a big problem for me as I really don't want to loose much trunk space. I already picked up a double din pioneer nav unit last week with sat radio, ipod connecter, and bluetooth. Now I need to start looking into what amps and subs I want.
 
#22 ·
I am anxious to see what you come up with for a box. This is a big problem for me as I really don't want to loose much trunk space.
I will loose some trunk space, but not any more than I need. This is my summer/recreational car, I don't need a lot of trunk space. I plan on documenting my exact measurements for my box in case anyone would want to use the design....

I already picked up a double din pioneer nav unit last week with sat radio, ipod connecter, and bluetooth. Now I need to start looking into what amps and subs I want.
There are 2 reasons I went with Alpine:

#1 I get an AWSOME discount from my friend!:byee55amg

#2 The Alpine set up does not require a VSS switch, which I have read causes a problem when installing aftermarket Nav since the M5 does not exactly have a VSS. DouglasABaker could explain this better than I could. You may want to check that info out before opening the box for your Pioneer....
 
#23 ·
hey Tim


Got your Nav screen in the mail and it looks and works great


here is a pic
 

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#25 ·
VSS is the vehicle speed switch. It is something MOST Nav units require for the Navigation to work properly. It tells the Nav unit how fast the car is going..... I think. Someone else can better explain this. I just know our car does not have one, and the majority of aftermarket Nav units require it.
 
#27 ·
^^ Thank you, amazing source of info, as usual...

If you look at the Alpine units I chose, the NVE-P1 is a stand alone unit that docks into the IVA-W505. So I am guessing it has a built in gyroscope, so no VSS signal is required.....
 
#30 ·
I hate to say this, but SEARCH. There a dozens of threads on this topic. Your main resouce should be DouglasABaker's blog and BMWTIPS.com, that is what I used. I have not wired anything yet, my speakers aren't even at the house yet. I can help you more next week after I do mine, as I stated in PM reply to you......

Hows it coming Tim?
Not bad. I found some material to cover the face plate with that should match up pretty good. Going to start some major prep work tomorrow....
 
#31 ·
I pulled this from DouglasABaker's blog:


Speaker Wiring:

All wires can be found in either the 26 pin (all exc. rear mid-bass) or the 15 pin (rear mid-bass and subwoofer) connectors.

White = Amplifier Turn-on lead
Yellow Wire = Driver/Left side of car (this could be passenger for RHD vehicles)
Blue Wire = Passenger/Right side of vehicle

Red Stripe = Front Mid-Bass +
White Stripe = Front Midrange +
Green Stripe = Front Tweeter +
Brown Stripe = Common Ground Front
Purple Stripe = Rear Mid-Bass +
Black Stripe = Rear Tweeter +
Gray Stripe = Common Ground Rear

The wires all come in twisted pairs, so you will always find either a gray stripe or a brown stripe wire in the pair.
A typical pair:
Yellow w/ Red, Yellow w/ Brown = Left Front Mid-Bass + / -
Blue w/ Red, Blue w/ Brown = Right Front Mid-Bass + / -
 
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