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Timmay77's stereo build (complete aftermarket system)

354K views 612 replies 78 participants last post by  DennisCooper 
#1 · (Edited)
I am in the process of tearing out EVERYTHING from my 01 M5 and putting a complete aftermarket system in. I will update this thread as things progress. Let's start with the parts list of the new stuff...

Alpine IVA-W505 - 7" 2 din multimedia station
Alpine NVE-P1 - removable navigation drive (no vss needed)
Alpine PXA-H100 - Imprint module
Alpine DHA-S680 - DVD/CD Changer
Alpine SPX-17REF - 6.5" component set
Alpine SPS-500 - 5.25" co-axial rear fill
Alpine SWR-1242D (2) - 12" DVC 4 ohm subwoofer
Memphis Audio 16-MCD1000 - 1100x1 @ 1 ohm sub amp
Memphis Audio 16-MCA2004 - 4 channel amp

Pac TR7 - Video bypass module (illegal I know, I don't want to hear it :byee55amg)
PAC SWI-JACK - steering wheel control module

Mounting kit for deck from Ebay
eBay Motors: BMW 5 series E39 double din bezel &complete install-kit (item 360119388261 end time Jan-04-09 12:07:28 PST)=

Now for some pictures....

Hole in dash where the Nav monitor used to be.....


Rear deck removed, speaker for the PDC. (Thanks DouglasABaker)


Subwoofer location. These are actually mounted from the bottom, but the screws have to be removed from the top.


GPS antenna (I think) on drivers side under the rear deck


Radio antenna (I think) in the drivers side rear pillar


Driver's side rear speaker loaction


Passenger's side rear speaker pod. Much larger than I thought they would be.



Trunk after my DSP Amp, Radio module, and CD changer were removed.


Wiring harness where I am going to tap into the speaker wires.
 
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#605 ·
Mild Audio Upgrades

For the sub or subs I really like either super high end infinite baffle 10's (Morel or Dynaudio come to mind) in the stock location or doing like one of the previous contributors to this thread did and attach a shallow sub enclosure to the rear deck. A single JL Audio 13TW5 with a legit 600-800 watts can make a respectable kick. A sealed enclosure with enough internal volume to be smooth down low would only require 1400-1600 cubic inches. I think I may try the IB approach first and see if it could deliver the kind of clean, resolute bass I want. If not, sell the speakers on eBay and go with the JL in a sealed box. I would probably remove or just disconnect the rear fill speakers because 1) I want to use a minimum number of amplifiers 2) I don't think rear fill adds much to the sound 3) I may be able to use the space for something.
With an IB setup it is going to be much more difficult to limit rear deck rattles and trunk rattles for that matter since the trunk becomes the enclosure but I will still try it first.

That brings us to amplifiers, eq and crossover locations as well as amplifier brand and size. I think that the sides of the trunk can easily be modified to hold amplifier racks as I would have no problem cutting those molded pieces. They are relatively cheap and don't look all that great to begin with. I would mount the amps using as little space as possible and then cut the molded sides to fit. Then I'd get creative with regard to protecting amps.

I have been using Morel Elate component speakers, PPI signal processors and PPI Art Series amps in my truck for years in the nearly exact setup I have described in these posts and I've got the sound fine tuned such that extreme volumes sound better than some live shows I've been to. In the last year or so I've switched to Arc Audio SE amplifiers. I've never used anything except old school PPI until recently but I have to say except for turn-off noise the sound is smoother, cleaner and downright better than the PPI's. I wouldn't have believed it but it's the gospel. And I never again have to worry about amps overheating.
I currently use an SE2300 for my sub, an SE2300 for the 6.5's and an SE2150 for the tweeters and that is what I plan in the M5. I know it's a lot of power for 6.5" speakers designed for 110 watts continuous but I love having too much power. I'm currently looking for an SE4000 for the sub.

I probably should have started by saying I mean no disrespect to what others have done. Others who have more knowledge, skill and drive than myself. Tim has completed a Herculean task and the finished product is something I can appreciate. Now I'd like to borrow a lot of what he and others have learned for my build.

P.S. I am new to posting in this forum even though I've been here for years so if I've done what amounts to "Hijacking" this thread and need to simply start a new one of my own I'll be happy to do that.
 
#606 ·
Mild Audio Upgrades

I left out some important details.
I would want to do a build around the stock head unit, monitor and all functions. Is there a product available that would plug into the cassette head and wirelessly receive Ipod signals like a Bluetooth function does? If not I am going to look into modifying the cassette portion. I can't imagine it being too difficult to use the cassette section as an input path for an iPod and or CD player. I see the wireless aspect as more complicated. Maybe I could route an input jack somewhere stealth. Then again, maybe there's an easier way. I'm all ears.
 
#612 ·
Dynavin Head Unit



I had no idea this product existed. I think it looks OEM. I'm still not thrilled about loosing all the OBC info on the head unit/display screen but I'm warming to the idea. If I read this thread correctly it is possible to have it all remain in the dashboard display. The prospect of having high quality sound from a head unit that looks OEM is pretty cool. And iPhone/iPod to boot. Pretty cool.

I still wonder why Dynavin would go to all the trouble of building this product that looks OEM and not go just a touch further and have a screen that displays the OBC functions. I guess the answer is it's not important to the large majority.
 
#609 ·
Hi Mechanic Charlie,

That's quite a detailed few responses ! you can 'edit' your posts so there's no need to type up a few paragraphs, post and then type up another one!

From what you say you'd like then you only really have one 'route' to go. That's to keep the oem modules as you wish to keep the OBC information (I'll assume you have the 16:9 widescreen monitor/ GPS setup in the car) and you'll need to use the Intravee2 with the breakout box and the Alpine PXA-H800 processor in order to get the 'best' audiuo signal from the oem setup. From there, you can choose high quality amplifiers and speakers all mounted solidly in order to provide the level of sound quality I think you are after.

You'll need to keep in mind that with mentioning brands like Morel and Dynaudio, Arc Audio, they are indeed more Sound Quality orientated and 'ideally' you'd supply them with a high quality audio signal say from a high end SQ head unit. The OEM audio isn't at that level. Also, there's longer term costs in that you'll need to keep those oem modules all functional as they each have multiple points of failure which are of course expensive to fix. Then there's the option to have the oem modules upgraded with newer functions and features - you'll need to send your modules to a specialist here in the UK who can do those, naturally, these all add up to a significant cost as well.

I use Arc Audio in my car and I've kept my setup simple and straightforward and giving a sound quality increase that usually astonishes BMW owners who are used to oem audio quality, all at a very reasonable cost. What you are asking will cost at least several times more and 'most' owners here on M5board aren't anywhere into the level you are wanting.

I know there's a few audio shops in Vegas, I popped into a few back in 2011 and 2012, so if you find them or others with an excellent reputation and knowledge, I'm sure you can plan and devise the setup you'd like. It sounds as though you like that 'powerful' and very loud, but clean and clear type sound which you can rock up at car meets and shows at and play. There's a few E39 M5's over here in the UK at a similar level so I know fully what you'd like.

Perhaps start a new thread with what you'd like as I think it'll help keep what you'd like and showcase in one place. There's a few links I can point you towards as well so you can begin to see the amount of work involved, the amount of products you'll need and how to connect things up to get that 'as best' signal as you can.

Cheers, Dennis!
 
#610 ·
I do have the 16:9 monitor. And thanks for responding.

"You'll need to keep in mind that with mentioning brands like Morel and Dynaudio, Arc Audio, they are indeed more Sound Quality orientated and 'ideally' you'd supply them with a high quality audio signal say from a high end SQ head unit. The OEM audio isn't at that level. Also, there's longer term costs in that you'll need to keep those oem modules all functional as they each have multiple points of failure which are of course expensive to fix. Then there's the option to have the oem modules upgraded with newer functions and features - you'll need to send your modules to a specialist here in the UK who can do those, naturally, these all add up to a significant cost as well."

Help me understand how "bad" the OEM head unit is in terms of sound quality. If it's that bad I think I may be open to an aftermarket head unit. I just hate the idea of loosing all the OBC functions on the display. I have had my '01 for 10 years and 120,000 miles so I don't understand why maintaining stock modules would be all that expensive. The only part of the OEM audio I've ever had to replace was the tuner in the trunk (I'm sorry, boot as you like to call it across the pond) due to some condensation which caused a short.

Talk to me more about having modules upgraded. Is it possible to keep the OBC functions and improve on the sound quality by "upgrading modules"?

"I know there's a few audio shops in Vegas, I popped into a few back in 2011 and 2012, so if you find them or others with an excellent reputation and knowledge, I'm sure you can plan and devise the setup you'd like. It sounds as though you like that 'powerful' and very loud, but clean and clear type sound which you can rock up at car meets and shows at and play. There's a few E39 M5's over here in the UK at a similar level so I know fully what you'd like."

If there are car audio shops in Vegas who have these skills I'd love to hear about it. I don't know of any.

I know this is off subject but how do I cut and paste your paragraphs in and give them a different background so it's obvious to others which parts of your input specifically I'm responding to?
 
#613 ·
Hi

Mechanical Charlie - Do consider creating your own thread :)

No aftermarket head unit 'fully' supports the OBC, the Dynavin is marketed in my opinion incorrectly. The N6 can show 'some' of the OBC info, but there's no facility to re-set and some OBC info does not show up. As I mention, the N6 is currently the 'best' of the chinese made options as Jeff provides fantastic support for the units. No one else does. That said there is still 'issues' and 'niggles' with the unit and there's a thread about it over on bimmerforums so you can read up on those there. Plenty of owners have got the N6 and are happy given the foibles and potential gremlins, but at the price it's at, this really shouldn't be the case. The reason Dynavin and any other chinese made E39 head unit won't (currently and for the forseeable future) ensure their head units work specifically with the E39 is that is simply costs way too much for them to spend in order to achieve it. The same 'n6' head unit would then need to perhaps fit in with other BMW and other brands head units that they make these for and the development costs to do that properly are way too high for them to invest.

Cheers, Dennis!
 
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