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Timmay77's stereo build (complete aftermarket system)

354K views 612 replies 78 participants last post by  DennisCooper 
#1 · (Edited)
I am in the process of tearing out EVERYTHING from my 01 M5 and putting a complete aftermarket system in. I will update this thread as things progress. Let's start with the parts list of the new stuff...

Alpine IVA-W505 - 7" 2 din multimedia station
Alpine NVE-P1 - removable navigation drive (no vss needed)
Alpine PXA-H100 - Imprint module
Alpine DHA-S680 - DVD/CD Changer
Alpine SPX-17REF - 6.5" component set
Alpine SPS-500 - 5.25" co-axial rear fill
Alpine SWR-1242D (2) - 12" DVC 4 ohm subwoofer
Memphis Audio 16-MCD1000 - 1100x1 @ 1 ohm sub amp
Memphis Audio 16-MCA2004 - 4 channel amp

Pac TR7 - Video bypass module (illegal I know, I don't want to hear it :byee55amg)
PAC SWI-JACK - steering wheel control module

Mounting kit for deck from Ebay
eBay Motors: BMW 5 series E39 double din bezel &complete install-kit (item 360119388261 end time Jan-04-09 12:07:28 PST)=

Now for some pictures....

Hole in dash where the Nav monitor used to be.....


Rear deck removed, speaker for the PDC. (Thanks DouglasABaker)


Subwoofer location. These are actually mounted from the bottom, but the screws have to be removed from the top.


GPS antenna (I think) on drivers side under the rear deck


Radio antenna (I think) in the drivers side rear pillar


Driver's side rear speaker loaction


Passenger's side rear speaker pod. Much larger than I thought they would be.



Trunk after my DSP Amp, Radio module, and CD changer were removed.


Wiring harness where I am going to tap into the speaker wires.
 
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#452 ·
i dont know if you have tried yet, but have you considered kick panels in the footwells? youd need to glass them in but they take a bit less space and are less intrusive than glassing in the pillars.
 
#453 ·
I have used kick panels in the past with cars that have a more open drivers area and were automatic. Also, I used a 6.5" or 5.25" 2 way component sets back then, not a 3 way set like I am using now. Having the L8 off axis and the L1/L3's on axis in the kicks would move my sound stage to the floor. With the large center console, and the fact that it is a stick, kick panels are just not something I would even consider. The HAT Legatias I am using sound amazing when mounted in the A-Pillars, off axis, I am being told by people with a lot more experience than me.
 
#462 ·
Peter, very nice build considering you kept the stock headunit! Now i ask with all the stuff you installed why still keep the stock headunit? im sure you have sorted through all the complications of keeping a stockie, but how come not a more sq unit? Ive heard good things about illusion audio too.


I refuse to put up my build until i do something about my hackjob box haha.
 
#467 ·
Ok, Peter...... I have spent the last 2 days, probably 8 hours, trying to get the fricking door cards back on with the L8 baffle installed. I am going crazy with this. I can not, for the life of me, figure out why the hell it won't go back on. Take out the baffle, the door card goes on. Put the baffle back on, no dice. I can't find where it is hitting!!!! I emailed Ben, but haven't received a reply, I am guessing I won't. My next step is to trash these beautiful baffles and build my own, which I DO NOT want to do for the lack of time. I won't be able to sleep tonight.... Sweet.....
 
#470 ·
timmay do you plan on fibreglassing around those to contour the shape blending it in to the a-pillar? Certainly sits much better now.
 
#471 ·
Yes, that is the whole reason I am doing this...... I will be fiberglassing them this week.

I am very happy with this version, I have them aimed exactly where I want them. They are far less intrusive than the first set I tried.
 
#473 ·
Tim - can you or Peter advise on resources that you two use to understand how to set up the sound stage in the car? I'm no audio engineer (just a musician) so I would like to better understand "off-axis" and what it means and why it is important. All I've ever done in car audio is amps and speakers, but no real concern about where they sat, or where they pointed. I'd like to learn some more.

And nice work on the A-pillar. Looks really good.
 
#476 ·
Hey Mike. "Off-axis" simply means not in a direct line towards your ear. "On-axis" is "brighter" sounding; off-axis, less so. That's the general rule. The distinction only matters for frequencies above mid-bass. Mid-bass and below are mostly omni-directional, which is why you can have a subwoofer pointed downward in your trunk and it doesn't matter (as much) to the sound quality or volume of the bass. The best way to tune a car stereo is with an RTA and a tuning CD. The RTA is essentially an oscilliscope that shows what frequency of sound is detected at what volumes (in dbs) at various locations in the car, usually those where your ears are! The tuning CD plays the precise frequency tones. That combination allows one to use the various modern tuning techniques--equalization, time alignment, etc.--to maximize the accuracy of the sound that reaches your ears.

That is the technical way to do it, which usually results (for me) in the best sounding system. Others do it simply by what sounds best to them for the type of music THEY play, and there's absolutely nothing analytically wrong with that. The more technical route is what works best for me.

--Peter
 
#475 ·
This is a pretty insane project. So interested to see the final product. How many hours have you put into it so far?
 
#477 ·
Excellent post Peter. The only thing I could add is when tuning with an RTA, you use "pink noise" It sounds like static from a bad reception. Mike, send me your address and I will make you the IASCA disc I use to tune my stereos and mail it out to you.....
 
#485 ·
Doug, thanks very much for the further explanation. Between you and Peter, I think I get it and it makes sense. Maybe one day, I will get to hear one of these installs for myself.
 
#487 · (Edited)
#490 ·
any CO2 offsets?
 
#493 ·
Just a little update.....

Been adding layers of fiberglass the last few days (6 layers) along with some fiberglass mat I ripped apart into fibers for strength.








I just negotiated a deal with a local guy to finish them out in bondo, smooth them over, and cover them with the OEM ///M5 suede I bought to match my roof liner. (the same material the stock A-Pillars are wrapped in) I know I know, I should do the whole project myself. I just don't have the time to do it honestly. I have SO MUCH work to do on the car before 4ngiefest on April 2nd it isn't even funny. Plus I don't really feel like sanding for an eternity on these things and making a HUGE mess in my garage. For $100 I will pay someone else to do it..... LOL....
 
#495 ·
The A Pillars went to my "fiberglass guy" to have him finish them off and cover them. Here are some pictures of what he had to do to get them to fit. I put WAAAAYYYY to much resin on them. At least I tried, right?









 
#498 ·
Very nice bro. Im almost jealous.
 
#501 ·
I want to thank Lunker325 and hdhntr23 for coming over and helping me out today........

Amp mounted to rack via Chris, thank you sir.... Wired up and ready to install.




HD radio module on the back of the sub amp rack.


Other amps and eq mounted up, wired up, and ready for install.


Passenger side woofer mounted and sealed air tight. Thanks Brian!


Now, some of you will NOT like the next 2 pictures, but this is a temporary thing. I mounted the EQ controller in this location until I can get it tuned in the way I want it and move the control to the HU, or come up with a better, more visually appealing method.

Please excuse how dirty the car is.....


 
#502 ·
I like how youve mounted the EQ control unit. Especially if you can glass it in like we talked about.

Im glad to have helped and like I said it was an honor to work on your Beast.
 
#503 ·
I bought a 2000 about a year ago that already had a single DIN aftermarket in place. I've been driving around with a really loud alternator whine and a substandard deck for a year. I just finished reading this entire thread. Just so you all know how helpful this thread is, here is a list of what I definitely learned:


  • The ground I undoubtedly have is going to be a HUGE PITA to isolate.
  • The double DIN aftermarket NAV I want to install will likely turn out to be more than anyone I can find to bring my car to can do, so I'll have to do it myself
  • Run wires perpendicular to each other whenever possible
  • Our antenna has to be run to the remote turn on lead to work
  • Always ground your entire system to the same point when possible
  • My removed Nav unit can be hooked up again to reset the stuff I'm toggling through with the steering column lever - Awesome
  • There is software available for car tuning using the same microphone that my onkyo uses in the living room for setup - Who knew?
  • The M5 does not have a VSS access it is built into the harness
  • Due to the VSS inaccessibility, the Pioneer AVIC Z120BT might turn out to lose signal more than I'd like
  • The steering wheel button adapter hookup is likely different on each model year and prob looking for the only multicolored wire
  • Last, and MOST IMPORTANT, it has taken an extremely knowledgeable and skilled person over two years to NOT finish his install, holy crap its going to take me forever. But, I'm still going for it anyway. :thumbsup:
Thanks Tim
 
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