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7th April 2008, 02:56
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#1 (permalink)
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Member, Sport: On DSC: On (>100 posts)
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Any interest in a tech writeup covering water pump replacement?
I could not find any tech procedure for the water pump replacement in this forum. I just finished and could write if anyone is interested...
Also went through the secondary air system while I was in there, but there is coverage of this issue...
Cheers;
Mike
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7th April 2008, 03:23
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#2 (permalink)
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M5 Expert (>4000)
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Up to you whether you think it's worth the write up. I'm sure it will be appreciated but probably <10% of the board would actually do the job themselves. I'm more curious about what you found/did looking at the secondary air passages.
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7th April 2008, 04:03
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#3 (permalink)
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Member, Sport: On DSC: On (>100 posts)
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Secondary air system findings/action
History: I have never had codes related to the secondary air system. Car is a 2000 with roughly 80K miles, moderate oil use (1 liter per 2000 miles), I do a lot of backroad driving in New Hampshire, car is never driven in winter - sits in garage for 5 to 6 months per year.
I removed the airtube to find hard carbon deposits on the drivers side of the tube. Deposits roughly represent 50% cross section blockage. Passenger side was black but much less blockage (about one third of the driver side blockage). The valve was black with carbon, but no appreciable buildup. I have attached pictures of the air ports to both heads. I also added a picture of the driver side head air port post cleaning (using a dremmel cone shaped wire bit and a round file - sorry about the quality of this picture).
I replaced the airtube and the valve just for grins. I was able to get the original tube clean by directing the stream of my parts cleaner (kerosene) into the tube with the valve port blocked. I let it run for nearly 12 hours, clean as new...
Cheers;
Mike
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The Following User Says Thank You to Michael William For This Useful Post:
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7th April 2008, 05:57
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#4 (permalink)
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m5board.comoholic (>1000 posts)
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While I agree that only a small minority of the board would ever do the job themselves (myself included in the majority who would likely not), if you are willing to do the write-up, please do! Even those of us who won't do it ourselves may learn from the information and at the very least these type of threads give those of us without much car engineering knowledge some advantage when we seek help at the dealer (or indy).
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Kevin
2002 M5, Sterling Gray/Caramel
2007 M Coupe, Silver/Black
1999 Mercedes ML320 (hauler...)
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7th April 2008, 08:41
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#5 (permalink)
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If you do a write up- on either- PM me and I can link oit in the FAQ sticky.
Always appreciated!
A
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7th July 2008, 01:12
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#6 (permalink)
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Member, P500 Sport, MDM on (>800)
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Please do the write up!!!! I am in the midst of the disassembly and am stuck... the bolt behind the crank dampener. Any pix and step by step proceedure.
PM me if you have some tips, etc...
Thanks!!!!!
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7th July 2008, 03:29
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member (>500)
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Wirelessly posted (XV6700: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows CE; IEMobile 6.8))
as the ownership of the E39 M5 changes, I think into the hands of people the would do it themselves. I know I would, but I hate the stealership.
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7th July 2008, 05:12
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#8 (permalink)
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Member, Sport: On DSC: On (>100 posts)
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Getting to the last water pump bolt....
You must take the crankshaft pulley off. To do this you simply remove the 5 - 13mm bolts you can feel on the middle of the pulley. Off comes the pulley, the nut plate, and the crankshaft end cover. No need to mark the pulley before removal as it is keyed.
Sounds like at least a couple of folks would find the writeup useful. I will put one together. Can't get to it until August now, way too much going on this month...
Cheers,
Mike
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7th July 2008, 05:35
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#9 (permalink)
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Member, Sport: Off DSC: On (>50 posts)
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Please do, for all these DIY suckers' sake!
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 - Robert
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7th July 2008, 13:51
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#10 (permalink)
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Member, P500 Sport, MDM on (>800)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael William
You must take the crankshaft pulley off. To do this you simply remove the 5 - 13mm bolts you can feel on the middle of the pulley. Off comes the pulley, the nut plate, and the crankshaft end cover. No need to mark the pulley before removal as it is keyed.
Sounds like at least a couple of folks would find the writeup useful. I will put one together. Can't get to it until August now, way too much going on this month...
Cheers,
Mike
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Michael, thanks for confirming what I need to do to get to that last bolt on the water pump.
I will take my time and do this right. The TSI (did the search) for purging air from the cooling system seems very clear and easy. Should have everything back together by the weekend. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
George B.
__________________
2002 Sterling Gray, Black and Aluminum interior
UUC Short Shifter & DSSR
UUC Clutch Stop
UUC Transmission Supports
UUC UltraSmooth CeraMetallic Clutch/LWF
Active Autowerks Cold Ram Air Intake - Modified
Air Plenum Heat Shield, 1700 degree black Jet-Hot coating
Alpine amp for JL Audio Sub Woofers
UFMotorsport S62 Intake Air Temp Sensor Relocation
Dinan Stage II Suspension
Dinan 3.45 Rear Diff. Gear Set
Dual JL Audio 10" Sub Woofers
K40/Laser Defuserplus, hidden install
K-Mac Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates
Kelleners Aluminum Sport Pedals & Foot Rest
MB Quart speaker replacement
NAV MKIV DVD
StopTech SS Brakelines
Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads
EvoSport Performance Underdrive Pulley Set
TubiStyle Cat-Back Exhaust
Power Chip 93 Gold - Modified & Sport 'On'
Perma-Cool Electric Engine Fan (no mechanical fan!)
Michelin Pilot Sport II Tires (front/rear stock sizes)
Royal Purple Synchromax Transmission Oil
Red Line 75W90 Differential Gear Oil
Sirius Radio receiver
SS Headers, EVO High Flow CATS
Zionsville Aluminum Radiator w/ Dual Speed Fan
My latest toy... a 2001 360 Modena Ferrari
My 'other' car is a supercharged 1996 911 C2 993
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7th July 2008, 22:18
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