loss of power: is it the clutch or something else!?
hey guys, some help here please... while heading up a hill I hit the 'go' pedal and the engine began to accelerate then immediately lost all power. the car essentially went into the dreaded 'limp home' mode apparently (is there usually a signal when the car enters this mode?) there were NO SES lights, no smoke, no noises. the thing just wouldn't accellerate, it would run and allow me to go, but slowly.
I quickly pulled off the highway to a gas station, let the car sit, checked for smoke or weird smells - there were none. then carefully and slowly drove the car home. I've been driving it very gingerly ever since.
So, the first thing I think is that I need a new clutch because the guy I bought the car from last year said the car needs it. But if it were the clutch, wouldn't the RPMs be revving up when I gas it? That wasn't happening. No revs at all.
Could the MAFS cause this?? I know those probably need to be replaced soon as the car now has 71K+ miles.
How about the throttle position sensor? How can I test that? I would assume if this were the problem, the symptoms would not just go away, the car wouldn't even go at all right?
If it were the cam position sensor wouldn't that be an issue throughout the RPM range? I hardly think the car would be drivable at all if it were the CPS, plus I think exhaust smoke is a symptom of CPS failure.
I've driven the car a couple times since this first happened and haven't had the problem since. Any thoughts?? Should I start with the MAFs and see if that solves the problem?
hey guys, some help here please... while heading up a hill I hit the 'go' pedal and the engine began to accelerate then immediately lost all power. the car essentially went into the dreaded 'limp home' mode apparently (is there usually a signal when the car enters this mode?) there were NO SES lights, no smoke, no noises. the thing just wouldn't accellerate, it would run and allow me to go, but slowly.
I quickly pulled off the highway to a gas station, let the car sit, checked for smoke or weird smells - there were none. then carefully and slowly drove the car home. I've been driving it very gingerly ever since.
So, the first thing I think is that I need a new clutch because the guy I bought the car from last year said the car needs it. But if it were the clutch, wouldn't the RPMs be revving up when I gas it? That wasn't happening. No revs at all.
Could the MAFS cause this?? I know those probably need to be replaced soon as the car now has 71K+ miles.
How about the throttle position sensor? How can I test that? I would assume if this were the problem, the symptoms would not just go away, the car wouldn't even go at all right?
If it were the cam position sensor wouldn't that be an issue throughout the RPM range? I hardly think the car would be drivable at all if it were the CPS, plus I think exhaust smoke is a symptom of CPS failure.
I've driven the car a couple times since this first happened and haven't had the problem since. Any thoughts?? Should I start with the MAFs and see if that solves the problem?
No, THAT was not the clutch ... you may need a new clutch, but that wasn't a positive signal indicating the clutch was bad.
Hard to say what it might be, as I have no idea of how you or the previous owner maintained or DROVE the car. Maintenance and driving style are very important (especially how you use the clutch pedal, if you are concerned about clutch life).
__________________
"The greatest obstacle to discovery is not ignorance; it is the illusion of knowledge."
I had the same thing 2 weeks ago, mine wouldn´t do over 3.000 rpm, but no warning lights or anything like that. After some cooling down, everything seemed fine. To be sure I went to the garage, where the mechanic removed some ´malfunctions´ out of the engine-software, the MAF´s where still ok. Everything seems to be working fine now.
Even if there is no SES, the car will throw codes that can be read via a diagnostic machine. My bet is that it was a Cam Position Sensor glitch. If the car is running fine now, I woudln't worry too much about it. If it continues, get it to an indy or dealer to read codes and diagnose culprit.
quick update: i ordered a clutch kit from pelicanparts.com for about 375 shipped. figured i may as well have it since the car's gonna need it soon anyways.
i also ordered a pair of VW mafs from precisiontuning.ca for 200 shipped.
we'll try installing the MAFs and hope that the problem goes away. I'll put the scantool software to work on reading the OBDII codes and see what comes up.
quick update: i ordered a clutch kit from pelicanparts.com for about 375 shipped. figured i may as well have it since the car's gonna need it soon anyways.
i also ordered a pair of VW mafs from precisiontuning.ca for 200 shipped.
we'll try installing the MAFs and hope that the problem goes away. I'll put the scantool software to work on reading the OBDII codes and see what comes up.
Why not run the dynamic MAF test to check the output? If output is low, clean the MAF's with MAF cleaner. If it improves, then definitely change out the MAF's. Otherwise, MAF's are ok.
Throwing parts at a car (especially this one) can get pretty $$$. Even with no SES, I would lean more towards CPS, which is relatively cheap.
Invest MAF savings and buy a Peake Code reader or equivalent!, or if you have software now, run the codes.
Regards,
Jerry
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'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
I checked the OBDII for codes and NOTHING. this is weird.
as per gsfent's suggestion, I tested the MAFS using the check control system and during full-throttle accelleration reached somewhere between 60 - 70 litres / hour on the test, I didn't red/orangeline the engine though. Do you have to to get a good reading???
additionally, the guy i bought the car from had tried cleaning the MAFS about 10K miles ago, so I'm pretty sure they're toast.
if the optimal WOT flow is 140 L/H then i think installing these should really unleash the beast.
I checked the OBDII for codes and NOTHING. this is weird.
as per gsfent's suggestion, I tested the MAFS using the check control system and during full-throttle accelleration reached somewhere between 60 - 70 litres / hour on the test, I didn't red/orangeline the engine though. Do you have to to get a good reading???
additionally, the guy i bought the car from had tried cleaning the MAFS about 10K miles ago, so I'm pretty sure they're toast.
if the optimal WOT flow is 140 L/H then i think installing these should really unleash the beast.
We'll see what happens...
Has to be WOT just before you hit the rev limiter. Make sure you are in the right test, L/H and not L/100km, they are both at test #4. L/H is the second test under #4.
Anything near 140 should be OK. Mine typically only got to 130 on a good day. If it remains around 70, MAF's are toast, and just be the fact they were cleaned, best guess is they need replacing.
Regards,
Jerry
__________________
'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
loss of power: is it the clutch or something else!?
, or if you have software now, run the codes.
Linear Mode
