I changed out the main speaker 5.25" driver this weekend, and after replacing the front passenger side panel, the red airbag light came on.
What caused this, and do I have to go to a dealer to get it turned off again? I haven't done the driver's side yet, but now I am hesitant if somehow I induced an airbag fault.
More than likely you didn't do anything to your air bags, but interrupted current and caused a fault. I pulled the wrong fuse once and caused the air bag light to go on.
Either go to the dealer or buy a Peake SRS reset tool. Both will cost the same to do.
Go ahead and do the left side and finish your speaker upgrade (BSW stage 1?) then beg the dealer for a reset. Sometimes the will do for free. Usual charge is the same as the reset tool, so I'd buy the tool instead. It pays for itself the second time around.
. Usual charge is the same as the reset tool, so I'd buy the tool instead. It pays for itself the second time around.
Does the Peake reset the airbag? Didn't know that.
Here is a bit of advice:
Instead of procrastinating about a code reader, just buy one. Otherwise you'll be minding your own business when one day you'll get a 'limp home' or other engine issue and a SES light...you'll panic and pay full retail PLUS UPS Red Shipping to get the reader next day.
Happened to me, read of this same thing from 3-4 others here... actually pretty funny 'human nature' thing.
More than likely you didn't do anything to your air bags, but interrupted current and caused a fault. I pulled the wrong fuse once and caused the air bag light to go on.
Either go to the dealer or buy a Peake SRS reset tool. Both will cost the same to do.
Go ahead and do the left side and finish your speaker upgrade (BSW stage 1?) then beg the dealer for a reset. Sometimes the will do for free. Usual charge is the same as the reset tool, so I'd buy the tool instead. It pays for itself the second time around.
So it wasn't the shock of snapping in the door panel mounting plugs? I did put the panel back on while listening to the sound system. Should I have pulled the battery cable before I started the work? I did not touch the electrical connector to the airbag.
I am putting in my own choice of drivers fom CDT. Their 5.25" EF-5 drivers sound great, and I am also planning to use the HD-2 midrange instead of the BMW driver on the bridge.
Last edited by dhl93449; 18th February 2008 at 06:26.
Does the Peake reset the airbag? Didn't know that.
Here is a bit of advice:
Instead of procrastinating about a code reader, just buy one. Otherwise you'll be minding your own business when one day you'll get a 'limp home' or other engine issue and a SES light...you'll panic and pay full retail PLUS UPS Red Shipping to get the reader next day.
Happened to me, read of this same thing from 3-4 others here... actually pretty funny 'human nature' thing.
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I have an Innova 3110 code reader that will read and reset the ODBII engine/drive train codes. It will not read and reset the SRS codes. I don't think the standard Peake reader/reset tool will either. I think you have to get a special version just for the SRS system
Funny there is another thread on this forum who has a number of codes in his car, from the ZKE all deal with the passenger side front door, but also has the airbag light malfunction as well. I thought last night that these could be connected as I have no info on these cars here. You pretty much confirmed this just now. Check and see if you might have blown a fuse while putting things back together with the system running.
Funny there is another thread on this forum who has a number of codes in his car, from the ZKE all deal with the passenger side front door, but also has the airbag light malfunction as well. I thought last night that these could be connected as I have no info on these cars here. You pretty much confirmed this just now. Check and see if you might have blown a fuse while putting things back together with the system running.
Do you know if the DSP amp has multiple fuses for the various channels? I did loose the two high frequency channels (tweeter on the pillar and the upper midrange on the bridge over the midrange). I was trying a number of alternative drivers and I thought I may have shorted something, although the main low frequency-midrange is operating fine. I wouldn't think these are related, but just asking since you mention fuses.
Funny there is another thread on this forum who has a number of codes in his car, from the ZKE all deal with the passenger side front door, but also has the airbag light malfunction as well. I thought last night that these could be connected as I have no info on these cars here. You pretty much confirmed this just now. Check and see if you might have blown a fuse while putting things back together with the system running.
Checked all the fuses, particularly the ones for the airbag. No problem, all are good.
DHL93449,
sorry I don't have access to wiring diagrams from my home computer, tomorrow I can get into my shopkey5 and email them to you. This will get you a better idea of what wiring you may have dislodged in installing the speaker system. Whatever you do disconnect the battery if it involves the airbag wiring. I was so hoping it was a fuse. You checked all fuses in the truck and under the dash?
DHL93449,
sorry I don't have access to wiring diagrams from my home computer, tomorrow I can get into my shopkey5 and email them to you. This will get you a better idea of what wiring you may have dislodged in installing the speaker system. Whatever you do disconnect the battery if it involves the airbag wiring. I was so hoping it was a fuse. You checked all fuses in the truck and under the dash?
Yes. Airbag fuses only in the glove compartment (according to the cards near the fuse boxes). Not sure how pulling the connectors on the speakers could affect the airbags. I have been messing with them all weekend, trying different speakers with the sound system on. The light only came on after I re-attached the panel. I am afraid that my impacting the panel with my hand to seat the plastic clips may have produced enough shock to trip something. The only other possibility is that my battery got pretty low, even though I have a standby charger on it while I was working. The charger is now running full current (at about 12 amps) and has been like that for 3-4 hours. That is not right, battery should not have drained that much given what I was doing. Perhaps the battery is ready to fail, and the low voltage tripped the sensor. Had this happen before with the battery, but it did not trip the SRS light.
The only connectors that I disconnected were the door light, window switch, and the two connectors feeding the speakers. Since I have M audio, there is one two pin connector feeding the tweeter, and a multi-pin connector feeding with six wires, four for the midrange/upper midrange drivers, and two that connect to the two pin tweeter connector. No other wires on these connectors. I know because I pulled the header/PC board on the speaker box to see where the traces went.
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