If you open the cap on your radiator when at operating temp you are in for a very nasty suprise(bad burns). Just look at the fill line on your expantion tank.
Thanks, thats what I suspected.
I just want to know if there is any other trick that I didn't know about, as I am still learning about the beast constantly.
I have already used starter fluid to look for vacuum leaks and came up with nothing. I am still noticing that first thing in the morning, when the engine is cold, the throttle feels like it should. It feels very responsive and crisp. It lasts for about the first 30-45 seconds. The TPS was definately bad. Now when I unplug the right bank MAF the engine stumbles. It didn't do that before. Would I need to reset the ECU before it would recognize the new piece?
Strange how it is better at high rpms. I seem to remember a discussion a long time ago that the idle circuit actually runs the car up to a ridicuously high rpm before the throttle bodies actually take over (maybe I am hallucinating from another board, but I think it was shadowman who provided that info). In my mind, it is well over 2000 rpm. I thought it strange, as there is nothing noticable from driving to give that indication, but then there is a lot of throttle by wire, so the computer would mask that anyway.
Interesting but for a different reason. My '05 M3 convertible is acting up in a similar way. No codes but an odd intermittent stumble at 3-4000 rpm, esp. when you open the throttle. Driveability is like the old days with a carb that had a bad accelerator pump or trying to drive it cold without a choke. It's still under warranty and I hope the dealer finds it soon. The weather is getting nice so I want to drive it. They swear they checked fuel pump and it's putting out sufficient pressure, and the fuel line is not obstructed. If anyone here has ideas, I'd appreciate them. I was thinking VANOS or TPS but lack of codes doesn't seem to suggest this.
Quote:
I have already used starter fluid to look for vacuum leaks and came up with nothing. I am still noticing that first thing in the morning, when the engine is cold, the throttle feels like it should. It feels very responsive and crisp. It lasts for about the first 30-45 seconds. The TPS was definately bad. Now when I unplug the right bank MAF the engine stumbles. It didn't do that before. Would I need to reset the ECU before it would recognize the new piece?
There is a bit of relearning, but nothing to reset. Just need to drive car for 100 miles or so and would help if you disconnected battery for a minute first. As for whether this is the cause or not of your problems, I don't know, unfortunately.
__________________
Need4Spd
'01 M5/UUC SSK + Rogue WSR/RE Tranny Mounts+Royal Purple Synchromax/Axxis ULT Pads/StopTech SS Lines/TC Design from BeastPower Anti-roll Bar Brackets/Dinan LtWtFlywheel and Stage 3 suspension/Goodyear F1 Asymmetrics/Vines thrust arms/IATS relocation/10w-60 oil/hardwired Escort 9500i/Euro Armrest/TEC Cupholder/IceLink/PowerChip 91 Gold/TUBIs!/Strong Strut/BSW Stage 1/BT/Angel iBrights 3.0
'05 M3 Imola Cabrio 6MT, Nav, HK
"Is it the sounds that make a BMW a BMW? A BMW is designed to be heard, felt, experienced. So our engines sing. Our steering talks back. And we insist on offering manual transmissions in nearly all our models for drivers who crave them. The result is an almost telepathic oneness with the car. Just as surely as you can hear a BMW, a BMW hears you."
I have already used starter fluid to look for vacuum leaks and came up with nothing. I am still noticing that first thing in the morning, when the engine is cold, the throttle feels like it should. It feels very responsive and crisp. It lasts for about the first 30-45 seconds. The TPS was definately bad.
30-45 seconds isn't much. Not enough time for much heat to get into the motor. Coils (or just one) could be going bad if hot, or something to do with the air pump ( I think we discussed this before). That is about the only thing I can think of that changes after that time, unless the car puts out enough heat to go closed loop (O2 sensors come on line, until then it runs on preset parameters). One of the reasons everyone tried to get the cats to warm up quickly so the car can go closed loop.
I would still check the AFR's as I have indicated before. Easiest way is to get some dyno pulls, and you can see the power curve which should be informative.
Regards,
Jerry
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'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
The indy shop said that ignition coil 7 was acting funny. I replaced it with no change. The first thing the indy shop asked me is what spark plugs I was running. I am running BOSCH, but the indy shop said to run nothing but NGK BKR6EQUP. He said that they had an M5 that they couldn't figure out the engine trouble and it turned out to be the new bosch plugs. I am thinking the car had NGK (with the hesitation problem), I replaced with BOSCH and I still have the problem. The indy shop plugged a $25,000 hand held computer to diagnose. He came up with the TPS and cylinder 7. I cannot believe all of the parts and money I have thrown at this car to change pretty much nothing. I will have to find a dyno shop and see what happens there. Thanks for all of the replies.
I did notice an oil leak which looks to be coming from the valve cover gasket. It didn't seem to be leaking into the coil boot. Could the leaky gasket cause a vacuum leak?
Jeff
The indy shop said that ignition coil 7 was acting funny. I replaced it with no change. The first thing the indy shop asked me is what spark plugs I was running. I am running BOSCH, but the indy shop said to run nothing but NGK BKR6EQUP. He said that they had an M5 that they couldn't figure out the engine trouble and it turned out to be the new bosch plugs. I am thinking the car had NGK (with the hesitation problem), I replaced with BOSCH and I still have the problem. The indy shop plugged a $25,000 hand held computer to diagnose. He came up with the TPS and cylinder 7. I cannot believe all of the parts and money I have thrown at this car to change pretty much nothing. I will have to find a dyno shop and see what happens there. Thanks for all of the replies.
I did notice an oil leak which looks to be coming from the valve cover gasket. It didn't seem to be leaking into the coil boot. Could the leaky gasket cause a vacuum leak?
Jeff
PM sent. Valve cover leak shouldn't be an issue, unless oil is getting into the cylinders. VC leak on our cars is pretty typical.
Regards,
Jerry
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'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
are you guys not replacing the expensive metal/rubber seal that goes into the thermostat housing? It should also be replaced, and is a pita to get out. I ended up bringing my thermostat housing to my local machine shop to remove the seal and press in the new one. ($40 for the labor)
I'm there now, and it won't budge. I don't understand how people claim to have done this job in an hour.
I wonder if there is some corrosion present - there was a little on the actual thermostat seal, making /that/ difficult to remove. I'm about to get the Dremel out, steady hand required.
I'll be changing the Thermostat over the weekend and wanted to sure I have all the necessary parts. Do any of you have part numbers to the o-ring and copper crush washer?
Replace o-ring on plug and reinsert plug.
Replace copper crush washer, blue loctite, and reinsert bolt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by everycredit
Thermostat is under $40 from pelicanparts.com. I don't recall the P/N, but look it up at realoem.com
Here's what you need to do.
Wait for car to cool down.
Jack car up.
Open expansion tank cap.
Remove underarmor of car, both front and back.
Pull blue plug from radiator (driver's side on lhd). This turns and pulls out after a hard tug (make sure it's turned all the way--no real tricks).
Catch ~ 1 gal of fluid.
Replace o-ring on plug and reinsert plug.
Remove heat shield blocking left side coolant plug (8 mm hex screws x 3 behind the tie rod)
With extension, remove left side coolant plug (13 mm, blue loctite)
Catch ~ 0.5 gal of fluid.
Replace copper crush washer, blue loctite, and reinsert bolt.
Remove right side coolant plug (13 mm, blue loctite)
Catch ~0.5 gal of fluid.
Replace copper crush washer, blue loctite, and reinsert bolt.
Thermostat
Remove L & R airbox top and pipes into intake (protect MAF from contamination)
Disconnect two radiator hoses going to thermostat housing (right in the middle of car)
Remove two 10 mm bolts holding down VANOS sending unit to thermostat housing.
Remove coolant temp sensor from thermostat housing (21 mm?)
Remove three 10 mm bolts holding down thermostat housing (all different lengths--note which bolt came from where)
Remove thermostat housing (tug it! hard because VANSO sending unit in the way and doesn't like to move due to SS hoses)
Remove and replace thermostat--note orientation of thermostat.
Remove and replace the three o-rings.
Reinstall in reverse order.
Mixture of 50/50 coolant/water. Potable water okay (if soft), deionized preferred. Slowly fill until 1 cm above minimum cold level in expansion tank (capacity about 13 liters).
Tighten cap on expansion tank.
Vent system--start engine, turn heater all the way up, turn fan on lowest setting (so it's still running). Run until engine reaches operating temperature.
Check for leaks.
When at operating temperature, check fluid level.
Add fluid if necessary (wait for fluid to cool!)
If no leaks, replace underarmor.
Lower car.
Reset DME.
Drive.
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Terry
00 M5 Apine White/Silverstone
Linear Mode
