Thanks but what I'm after is the 0-ring for the radiator plug and washer to replace after draining coolant from left, right side of the engine....
TIS also shows these need to be replaced.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcdavis
Check out post #14.
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Terry
00 M5 Apine White/Silverstone
Thanks but what I'm after is the 0-ring for the radiator plug and washer to replace after draining coolant from left, right side of the engine....
TIS also shows these need to be replaced.
Sorry, been out of town and busy with work.
Crush washer for coolant drain plug p/n is 07119963225. You'll need two. Should run you about $2.00 USD
It says to note the orientation of the thermostat. How is suppose to be installed to the housing? The reason I'm asking is I just replaced the thermostat and the temperature needle is still showing slightly left of middle...
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Terry
00 M5 Apine White/Silverstone
My car had two codes, misfire on cylinder 1 and 6 and the TPS. TPS is going a new one in and the coils were already replaced. The SES came on after pushing the car under hard acceleration in second gear (6500rpm).
I thought it was all fixed. The idle is perfect and nothing wrong with the way the car pulls, until sometimes when I reach the 6000rpm in 2nd gear and it makes a weird sound for a split second, blows some black smoke (I had a friend following in one occasion), the SES light comes on and it goes into limp mode. I stop the car and restart it again and its all fresh and good, even if I take it again to above 6000rpm in 2nd gear.
The car is going to my indy in the coming weeks, but this is really puzzling me. Any idea if it could still be a misfire on cyl. 1 and 6? I still didn't order my Peake tool... about time I do that.
I'm there now, and it won't budge. I don't understand how people claim to have done this job in an hour.
I wonder if there is some corrosion present - there was a little on the actual thermostat seal, making /that/ difficult to remove. I'm about to get the Dremel out, steady hand required.
resurrecting...what did you end up doing? i'm having the same issue, it won't budge. there is a pep boys close to my house, i took it over there and they can't get it out either.
Do I need to order anything else besides the thermostat and gasket? Any o-rings, washers etc?
Pelican parts has a coolant refresh kit that includes new t'stat, fan clutch, all the parts you need to for this repair job. It's called a Water Pump Super Kit, and it includes for about $754:
Quote:
New Water Pump and Gasket (metal impellers)
New Thermostat and Gasket
New Water Pump Belt
New Fan Clutch
12 oz. Redline Water Wetter Corrosion Treatment
New Radiator Mounts
Fan Clutch Tool and Counter Holder
New Radiator Cap
New Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses
Quote:
Interesting but for a different reason. My '05 M3 convertible is acting up in a similar way. No codes but an odd intermittent stumble at 3-4000 rpm, esp. when you open the throttle. Driveability is like the old days with a carb that had a bad accelerator pump or trying to drive it cold without a choke. It's still under warranty and I hope the dealer finds it soon. The weather is getting nice so I want to drive it. They swear they checked fuel pump and it's putting out sufficient pressure, and the fuel line is not obstructed. If anyone here has ideas, I'd appreciate them. I was thinking VANOS or TPS but lack of codes doesn't seem to suggest this.
For those wondering, I, yes "I," not my tech, not PUMA, or anyone else, figured out that the problem with my M3 was a faulty fuel pump that was putting out less than the required pressure/volume. At low RPM, lower speeds, it would hesitate like an old carbureted car when running cold and having either a faulty choke or bad accelerator pump (you old guys like me will know what I'm talking about). If I floored it, it would still run hard, but it's hard to tell w/o a dyno how much HP was lost since there's such an abundance. Anyway, I got the same feedback from the dealer/tech about no codes, can't figure this out, MAFS not the problem, etc. and I figured that it HAD to be the fuel pump despite no codes being thrown, as nothing else made sense. I told them if I was wrong, I'd pay for the new fuel pump installation myself! They assured me that I wouldn't have to do that, that they had no better ideas, so they swapped out the pump for a new one. PERFECTO. That was it. Car's been running fine since. Perhaps your problem is a bad fuel pump that hasn't quit but isn't producing like it should. Or, maybe you have a clogged fuel filter. I'd try that changing that first because it's easier and cheaper. With mine, however the pump's operation was erratic, which made it all the harder to diagnose, and they looked at the filter and found it was fine.
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Need4Spd
'01 M5/UUC SSK + Rogue WSR/RE Tranny Mounts+Royal Purple Synchromax/Axxis ULT Pads/StopTech SS Lines/TC Design from BeastPower Anti-roll Bar Brackets/Dinan LtWtFlywheel and Stage 3 suspension/Goodyear F1 Asymmetrics/Vines thrust arms/IATS relocation/10w-60 oil/hardwired Escort 9500i/Euro Armrest/TEC Cupholder/IceLink/PowerChip 91 Gold/TUBIs!/Strong Strut/BSW Stage 1/BT/Angel iBrights 3.0
'05 M3 Imola Cabrio 6MT, Nav, HK
"Is it the sounds that make a BMW a BMW? A BMW is designed to be heard, felt, experienced. So our engines sing. Our steering talks back. And we insist on offering manual transmissions in nearly all our models for drivers who crave them. The result is an almost telepathic oneness with the car. Just as surely as you can hear a BMW, a BMW hears you."
Last edited by Need4Spd; 6th December 2008 at 04:34.
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