I hope Mobil1 works fine in your engine. I've got serious problems with Mobil1 oils in every car I have own. I have tried Mobil in japanese engines between 1.8 and 3.0litres of size, and in few BMW engines, few of my friends have tried it in BMW's as well, like in 850Ci V12 engine.
All of these tests end up in few things -> with mobil oils the oil consumption was amazing, engine oil level needed re-filling almost every time you added fuel in the tank.
In 850 V12 engine 15W50 mobil went through valve cover seals and other seals to the ground, after that Castrol 10W60 was added and engine was washed - no leaks after that.
This is not just me trying to say Mobil is bad, I'm actually very curious why this effect is seen in so many cars and engines through different sizes, models and manufacturers - what is so different with Mobil oils that causes this?
I completely agree with the problems associated with Mobil 1, and I think these extend to synthetic oils in general. I just bought a 2002 M5 so I have no direct experience with this car, but I have owned a Dinan stroker '85 M635 (M88 Euro motor) which I used Mobil 1 20/50W exclusively for 130K mi, changed at 4-5k mi intervals. When the motor was finally rebuilt at Fahey Motorsports, we found considerable bottem end bearing wear, and some cam shaft wear. Far from the "no measurable wear after 100k mi" claims Mobil used to make for this oil. Now I use good old 20W50 Kendall or Brad Penn racing oil (dyno oil) changed at 2-3k intervals. Do you think that bottom end bearing wear problems and extended oil change intervals with 5W30 synthetic oils are unrelated?
SWEET ! ......What flavor oil did you go with? And I also was wondering about a heater,you could set a timer and have the the (engine and oil)pre heat so that first thing in the morning it was warm and ready to roll.Whatcha think?
If you want to pre-heat your oil, buy a 120V silicone oil pan heater pad (about $15) and install on your oil pan. They glue on with RTV silicone (orange or blue colored). You will probably have a hard time finding one in Texas, but a NAPA store should be able to order one for you. If you can convince the guy behind the counter that such a thing really exists!!
Here's a pic of the oil pan heaters on my X5.
Then you could plug the pan heater into a time clock which would turn it on at whatever time you set.
But, pre-heating the oil is a bit overkill. I don't plug in unless its colder than zero or so. And the X lives in a heated garage, so it hardly ever gets plugged in .
Congratulations Randall, that must be great feeling to have it back.
So you have that grinding sound still?
Yes I guess new S62 should be pretty quiet, I hope you could take an idle-video like I did, Randall - it would be extremely interesting to hear closely how S62 sounds with totally fresh bearings? Could you do that? Maybe from front, under.. like in my vid.
Most of these S62's what I've heard including my own, sounds like the engine has 4 of the pistons cracked, 90% of bearings destroyed etc... but that's the soul of S62.
........When the motor was finally rebuilt at Fahey Motorsports, we found considerable bottem end bearing wear, and some cam shaft wear. Far from the "no measurable wear after 100k mi" claims Mobil used to make for this oil. Now I use good old 20W50 Kendall or Brad Penn racing oil (dyno oil) changed at 2-3k intervals. Do you think that bottom end bearing wear problems and extended oil change intervals with 5W30 synthetic oils are unrelated?
Originally Posted by DouglasABaker
...........Bottom line is that synthetics last longer and work better. Do they work for 15K miles? Nope. But they are easily good for 5K and have better additives.
Mobil 1 with 75K miles on it will generally protect bearings better than any fresh dino oil with 0 miles on it. Mobil Oil Corp NEVER claimed that their synthetic oil is a cure-all for bad oiling system design or excessive rev's.
It scares me that someone would associate high RPM rod bearing wear with synthetic formula. It's just the opposite. These folks need to follow the professional, commercial & industry leaders in competitive Formula 1 racing, superbike, aircraft and CART where RPM's can far exceed 12K+ & synthetics have been used almost EXCLUSIVELY for the last 20 years.
Much Lower friction, better shear & stability is exhibited by premium synthetics. Synthetics will not address all lubrication challenges or fix marginal design, but they blow away dino for most apps.....San Francisco cable trolley lube, no.
I used a 25K mile service interval on my HPDE track motors and the engines lasted 250+ mi showing almost no wear. It will protect beyond 50K miles, although not as well as fresh synthetic. Stabilizing and cleansing additives do deteriorate and corrosive & particulate contaminants from fuel, gasses, combustion/carbon byproducts slowly build up. You can change conventional Kendall oil hourly and it will not equal the protection offered by good synthetic. Fresh conventional oils have higher friction and wear rate.
Much Lower friction, better shear & stability is exhibited by premium synthetics. Synthetics will not address all lubrication challenges or fix marginal design, but they blow away dino for most apps.....
+1. Dino juice can't come close. The long chain molecules in synthetics are built uniformly. Dino juice can't come close; there are all kinds of fragments and cross-linked molecules that rub one another the wrong way, resulting in higher friction and lighter fractions that more easily burn off or coke.
'01 M5 (now my brother's car) UUC SSK + Rogue WSR/RE Tranny Mounts+Royal Purple Synchromax/Axxis ULT Pads/StopTech SS Lines/TC Design from BeastPower Anti-roll Bar Brackets/Dinan LtWtFlywheel and Stage 3 suspension/4xOEM rear 275 Goodyear F1 Asymmetrics/Vines thrust arms/IATS relocation/10w-60 oil/hardwired Escort 9500i/Euro Armrest/TEC Cupholder/IceLink/PowerChip 91 Gold/TUBIs!/Strong Strut/BSW Stage 1/BT/Angel iBrights 3.0/space-saver spare by Bimmerzone
'11 Jaguar XFR, Quicksilver exhaust, Escort 9500ci
Unnamed weekend Italian 2 seater with DCT
Future - F10 M5 with manual transmission?
"Is it the sounds that make a BMW a BMW? A BMW is designed to be heard, felt, experienced. So our engines sing. Our steering talks back. And we insist on offering manual transmissions in nearly all our models for drivers who crave them. The result is an almost telepathic oneness with the car. Just as surely as you can hear a BMW, a BMW hears you."
Hey everyone, here is the lowdown to exactly what I got done, part #'s, and labor times. Its a long list!
1. Replacement of all crankshaft and rod bearing with engine in car (16 hours) $1512
2. Additional worktime to completely remove front crossmember and remove suspension & steering components (1.5 hours) $141
3. Pressure wash front crossmember, N/C
4. Disassemble oil pump and check clearances, wear on impeller, and operation of safety relief valve (1.2 hours) $113
5. Installed customer supplied shifter bushing kit with new shiftrod. Includes removal and installation of heat shield and driveshaft sections for access (4.5 hours) $425
6. Replace oil pump chain tensioner (.4) $47
7. Weld cat. converters (mig with stainless). Includes prep weld area and realign exhaust (1 hour) $109
8. Replace thrust arm bushings with HD X5 bushings (1.8 hours) $198
9. Replace leaking power steering feed hose (1 hour) $94
Here is the parts list:
(1) 11131407532 Gasket $16
(5) 11211725918 Upper Main Bearings $70
(2) 11211702146 Upper Guides $8.8
(5) 11211725910 Lower Main Bearings $48.5
(2) 11211702144 Lower Guides $8.8
(8) 11241407493 Upper Rod Bearings $112
(8) 11241407492 Lower Rod Bearings $112
(1) 11411407056 Tensioner $8.95
(10) 11111745188 Bolts $30.4
(10) 11111736005 Bolts $7.56
(1) 11137831014 Gasket Set $45.05
(1) 11421702917 ORing $1.55
(2) 11137830114 ORing $6.5
(2) 11137830113 ORing $6.5
(2) 11137830112 ORing $6.5
Lets cross our fingers for smooth operation for some time... I have quite the credit card bill to pay off for this one!
!!! It cost $425 to have them install a shift rod?
I installed my DSSR + E60 shifter and bushing with the car on a set of ramps, no heat shield or driveshaft removal required.
Yea, some shops are not familiar with the tricks used to install shifter parts on M5 without removing hardware. The shifter labor could have been used to purchase an Eibach swaybar kit that could have been installed for $0 additional labor with the frame already pulled.
How about shifter labor costing 25% of rod bearing replacement lol.