Hey, I have recently began to search for E39 M5's as I may be in the market for one soon. Right now I am just doing research.
I have obviously noticed that the 2000 model year goes for the least money. I realize this is largely due to the fact that they have the most miles (usually), and also because of the minor visual differences (ie LED tails, angel eyes, GPS difference) but is there anything else different about the 2000 M5? Do they generally experience more problems than, say a 2001? What I am asking is do the 2000 M5s have any mechanical issues that the later ones do not have?
I know a lot of cars have problems their first year and as the line goes on the factory tends to fix those problems for the next years' cars. I figured it was worth asking.
Thanks.
They changed the piston ring design near the end of the 2000 model year. This design change causes less oil useage than the early 2000's plus you don't HAVE to use 10W60 motor oil.
Others will surely pipe in, but this is how I understand it.
Bob
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2001 Jet Black M5
2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 HEMI
2001 Dodge neon - Slomatic winter beater
They changed the piston ring design near the end of the 2000 model year. .
Bob
it was actually pretty early in the 00 model year, cars produced 2/00 and earlier have the old design rings, 3/00 and later have the new design rings.
Oil consumption still varies quite a bit, regardless of ring design. Later cars that tend to use oil will use a lot less with 10/60.
Couple of vanos updates thru the years, from what i've heard, 9/01 and beyond have the latest version, many earlier cars will have already had updates. Can't remember for sure, but you can tell if you have the newer style vanos by either the number or type of bolts on the front of it.
__________________
Mike
91 M5 Alpine White II, Silver Gray 3/90 production
17x8/17x9 M system with PS2, 20mm touring roll bar; Ground Control Coilovers; EAT Chip, CD43; bmw/nardi blackline steering wheel, 3.8 Cam Gears
08 535i / 6 speed
Space Gray; Gray; Sport/Premium/Nav
00 M5 Ti Silver; Imola/black sportiv --Sold
Engine:
Supersprint Headers, Dinan CAI kit and MAFS, Throttle Bodies, Cams, Ported heads, Exhaust, Custom dinan software, Evosport Pullies, Dinan clutch and lightened flywheel; Ignition solutions plasma coils
Suspension:
Dinan Stage 3 with front and rear Strut Tower Braces, Beastpower Sway bar brackets, Dinan Wheels with 275/285 PilotSport, X5 Thrust arm bushings, Stoptech 355mm 4 piston front, 355mm 2 piston rear brake kit, Dinan 3.45 diff
Interior/Misc:
Eurodash, updated steering wheel, Bluetooth retrofit, Sirius Retrofit, hardwired V1, Widescreen Mk4 nav, M audio retrofit, Ice Link, BSW Stage 1 speaker upgrade, bmw towbar
Hey, I have recently began to search for E39 M5's as I may be in the market for one soon. Right now I am just doing research.
I have obviously noticed that the 2000 model year goes for the least money. I realize this is largely due to the fact that they have the most miles (usually), and also because of the minor visual differences (ie LED tails, angel eyes, GPS difference) but is there anything else different about the 2000 M5? Do they generally experience more problems than, say a 2001? What I am asking is do the 2000 M5s have any mechanical issues that the later ones do not have?
I know a lot of cars have problems their first year and as the line goes on the factory tends to fix those problems for the next years' cars. I figured it was worth asking.
Thanks.
Not sure, as mine has 115,000 miles on it.
It has had the "normal" problems:
1. bad crank position sensor (CPS) @ 80K
2. MAF sensors @ 80K
3. A/C condensor unit @ 90K
4. bad mark II NAV GPS @ 110K
5. bad cats started @ 80K (replaced at 110k)
6. Thrust arm bushings @ 80K
It has not had these problems:
1. VANOS solenoids
2. Oil burning (my car doesnt burn 1 drop).
__________________
2000 Silverstone Dinan
2007 Pepper White Mini Cooper Turbo
1996 Viper GTS #65 SCCA ITE/NASA TTU http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2578513
I also have an MY2000 Beast, 96,xxx on the odometer and still takes rubber in the first three gears. Build date 05/00 with zero oil consumption.
Was wondering, I know the previous owner had the Vanos units fixed under warranty. How can I tell the difference from the old Vanos and new units by the type of bolts on the outside? Can someone chime in to explain the differences? Thanks!
Hey, I have recently began to search for E39 M5's as I may be in the market for one soon. Right now I am just doing research.
I have obviously noticed that the 2000 model year goes for the least money. I realize this is largely due to the fact that they have the most miles (usually), and also because of the minor visual differences (ie LED tails, angel eyes, GPS difference) but is there anything else different about the 2000 M5? Do they generally experience more problems than, say a 2001? What I am asking is do the 2000 M5s have any mechanical issues that the later ones do not have?
I know a lot of cars have problems their first year and as the line goes on the factory tends to fix those problems for the next years' cars. I figured it was worth asking.
Thanks.
There was a piston ring design change on the 2000MY starting with the 3/00 build date.
The reason that this is important is that "supposedly" the previous design used more oil than post 3/00 makes.
My build date was 11/99 and although I have had my share of problems, using oil has never been one of them - now at 153,000 miles and have owned it since new.
This site will tell you a lot about the differences from year to year. Basically there are no "bad" years, but MY'00 is probably the least desireable mainly for the cosmetic differences and tendency to use more oil than later models. As some noted, it's not every MY'00 that consumes a lot of oil and later ones can, too. Mainly it seems to be how they were broken in. Keep in mind the M5 was sold in Europe for nearly a year before coming to the U.S., so MY'00, the first available here, is actually the second year of e39 M5 production.
__________________
Need4Spd
'01 M5/UUC SSK + Rogue WSR/RE Tranny Mounts+Royal Purple Synchromax/Axxis ULT Pads/StopTech SS Lines/TC Design from BeastPower Anti-roll Bar Brackets/Dinan LtWtFlywheel and Stage 3 suspension/Goodyear F1 Asymmetrics/Vines thrust arms/IATS relocation/10w-60 oil/hardwired Escort 9500i/Euro Armrest/TEC Cupholder/IceLink/PowerChip 91 Gold/TUBIs!/Strong Strut/BSW Stage 1/BT/Angel iBrights 3.0
'05 M3 Imola Cabrio 6MT, Nav, HK
"Is it the sounds that make a BMW a BMW? A BMW is designed to be heard, felt, experienced. So our engines sing. Our steering talks back. And we insist on offering manual transmissions in nearly all our models for drivers who crave them. The result is an almost telepathic oneness with the car. Just as surely as you can hear a BMW, a BMW hears you."
Last edited by Need4Spd; 20th December 2007 at 08:27.
*any* year can be a bad year if a previous owner has thrashed the vehicle. just do your homework on it, talk to the previous owner, check maintenance records, call a dealer to get them, run a carfax, have a ppi done [not by a $tealer]. and continue to ask questions here. good luck!
__________________ '02 M5 TiSi-SBI [Sexy Black Interior] - "Audrey"
BMWMOA iBMWr IBA#7268 LPR#71 SEAT#17 - Valentine1 - hardwired
- StealthOne
- SS Exhaust
- GrafxWerks ///M5 Lighted Door Sills, all 4 doors
- Hella Euro clear corner headlights
- Steath Auto Turn Signal Bulbs
- Predator ICE v2.1
- Xenon fog lights
- CNS Racing clutch
- TC Designs Sway Bar Brackets
'87 K75S - "Maybellene"
'00 R1100S - "Tresor!" Sierra Vista, AZ
No bad years. With the E39 M5 it is just the drivers that make these machines go bad. Maintenance is the key to longevity. Obtain all records on the car before purchase. The Clutch and Vanos replacement should always be at the top of the questions. Along with Intervals of service.
No bad years. With the E39 M5 it is just the drivers that make these machines go bad. Maintenance is the key to longevity. Obtain all records on the car before purchase. The Clutch and Vanos replacement should always be at the top of the questions. Along with Intervals of service.
+1
I'll add that the E39 M5 is now old enough that 2nd and 3rd or more owners who do not really have the resources to maintain the car properly but are attracted to the purchase price for something they've always wanted have acquired them. Hence there are starting to be numerous examples of very poorly maintained cars, poorly modified (witness that eBay car with the crazy hoses recently), etc, on the market. The used market for the M5 has changed dramatically in the past 3 years. Be careful, and preferrably buy a car with extensive provenance.
__________________ Current stable:
2001 M5 LeMans Blue/Silverstone
Dinan: springs, Konis, rear sway bar, monoball bushings, and exhaust
Ground Control camber plates
Stoptech front brake kit
Brake ducts opened
TC Design brackets
OE 9.5" rear wheels all around & 275/35-18 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec for street
275/35-18 BFG R1 & Nitto NT-01 R-comps for track
2003 330i ZHP 6MT Imola Red/Black Alcantara
2006 330i sport 6MT Electric Red/Black
2001 Audi S4 6MT Silver/sport Alcantara
1996 Volvo 850R wagon
Last edited by CSBM5; 20th December 2007 at 15:42.