So in case you didn't read my other thread, I just bought a 00MY M5 (05/00 build date) with 85500 miles on the odometer.
I've been reading thread after thread on this site, night after night. I have no warranty on this car right now. I'm not worried about basic repair work, which I can do myself. I'd probably even tackle a clutch job or a vanos solenoid issue on my own. I can afford the $1.5-3k yearly expenses of owning this type of car. What I'm worried about is if the big enchilada decides to take a dump.
For you non-texans that would be an engine failure. What I CAN'T afford is a $20k engine replacement. I only paid $22k for the car, so that wouldn't make much sense to me.
Is this a legitimate concern for me? Are you guys w/o warranties also worried about this? Is this something a decent 3rd party extended warranty will protect?
I understand that a factory tuned performance motor isn't going to last for 300k miles most likely. I don't drive much, maybe 8-10k miles per year.
What do you guys think...and please be brutally honest!
I have a 99' with 182000km on it and no problems with the engine it's the rest of the stuff like air con compressor and abs control unit that go wrong both expensive.
I do have an extended warranty on mine, which was transfered over from the original owner. I must admit that gives me a little peace of mind, but I really don't worry about this car grenading. I believe the S62 is a good motor, and properly maintained, should last a good long time.
Brian, Mine is a MY2000 with 82K miles and no warranty. Surely $20K is worst case. I wouldn't spend $18-20K on a new motor either. If mine "blows", (cannot be repaired) I'll search for a used S62 or even considering installing a reliable used BMW in-line 6 in car. (and debadging of course so I won't be a "faker".) I really haven't seen many cases of total lost engines on this board.
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Regards, Bill
2000 M5 Imola Red, Dinan CAI, Software, Exhaust
1999 328IS Avus Blue (kid's drive, I pay)
1998 540i Alpine White (kid's drive, I pay)
2001 330ci Topaz Blue (daily driver)
2004 Yukon XL (wife's)
the only major failures we seem to see are related to rod bearings, similar to the 3.8L e34 M5. If you plan on really driving the car hard, lots of high revs etc, it's probably a wise move to replace the rod bearings around 100k miles. I
have yet to see anyone do it here prophylactically, but a few members have done it after they started knocking (which is lucky), others have thrown rods. Still, a small number overall, maybe 10 or so cases on the board reported.
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Mike
00 M5 Ti Silver; Imola/black sportiv
Engine:
Supersprint Headers, Dinan CAI kit and MAFS, Throttle Bodies, Cams, Ported heads, Exhaust, Custom dinan software, Evosport Pullies, Dinan clutch and lightened flywheel; Ignition solutions plasma coils
Suspension:
Dinan Stage 3 with front and rear Strut Tower Braces, Beastpower Sway bar brackets, Dinan Wheels with 275/285 PilotSport, X5 Thrust arm bushings, Stoptech 355mm 4 piston front, 355mm 2 piston rear brake kit, Dinan 3.45 diff
Interior/Misc:
Eurodash, updated steering wheel, Bluetooth retrofit, Sirius Retrofit, hardwired V1, Widescreen Mk4 nav, M audio retrofit, Ice Link, BSW Stage 1 speaker upgrade, bmw towbar
91 M5 Alpine White II, Silver Gray 3/90 production
17x8/17x9 Turbines with PS2, 20mm touring roll bar; Fahey Suspension with SLS elimination; EAT Chip, CD43; work in progress