I'm going to look at a 2000 M5 tomorrow with slightly over 100,000 miles. I've called my local BMW shop (Strictly BMW) and will of course take it for a PPI if the car passes my visual/driving inspection. I'm curious if anyone has a M5 over 100k and what your experience may be? The owner has told me he recently replaced a camshaft sensor, clutch, and a few other smaller items. He said the car needs brakes as well. The car is priced very aggressively, and I'd be comfortable doing the brakes in at this price (assuming a brake job will run me around 2k). What are the gotchas I can expect with a car of this age? What maintenance should have been done (water pumps, timing belts, etc....)
If this car doesn't check out I'll end up getting an S60-R later in the week. I've had a E36 coupe in the past and loved it. Recently sold my 993 and miss it, although it wasn't nearly fast enough I'm driving a 2000 Audi A6 2.7t with all sorts of suspension and engine upgrades and now am looking for something a little more comfortable for every day driving. I won't own the car more than a year or so likely, so I don't need the 150k prognosis.
Thanks in advance for the replies!
Last edited by aa2300; 25th September 2007 at 18:45.
Bit of a tough question with out seeing the car. I did the same bought a high mileage M5 knowing that money would have to be spent on it. Brakes should come to less than 2k (I'm in euro so not quite sure) but the others things bmw may fine wrong with it could push it over that. If the last owners has had some work done to it ask for the recipets, if he says he does not have them then I would get a little suspious that he has not done anything. Strangley enought all my problems started about 9 months after I got the car when it was due for an inspection 2. After the inspection (done at a bmw garage) I had to replace 3 costly items. So my advice is to have a back up fund for future work. However dont be to worried as the engine is basicly sound, when you take it for a test drive you may notice a puff of smoke when you floor the throttle, its not a major problem just make sure it not a big puff, if it is you may have a expencive fix in the future or the owner could be using the wrong oil (to thin). But this a good excuse to get the price even lower. Mine smokes a bit but all this means is you will have to watch the oil level carefully.
Also look for any lights on the dash board that stay on when you start the car, this will also eat into your budget. Except handbreak light obviously. Check everything works like windows, lights seats,etc.
Check under and in the engine bay for oil leaks and the condition of the belts. The tyres will be pretty pricey too, front or back, but once changed will last a long time with dsp on. Check how many green service light are left when you start the car, but this is not a true indication as to when it was last serviced as there are methods and tools you can buy to reset them. Best indication as to when it was last looked at by a pro would be the condtion of the alternator and air con belts in the engine bay. If you see lots of cracks in the ribbs of the belt and 4 or 5 green service light then something is not quite right. BMW would definatly have changed the belts if there were cracks.
Everything starts to wear out around 100k and repairs are outrageously expensive. The value of the MY 2000 with high mileage is very low and is dropping because of the risk of major failure. The transmission will go if it has not already been replaced. Your Vanos will go if it hasn't already been rebuilt. There also seem to be a lot of rod bearings going out lately on high mileage MY 2000s. They are great cars, but the risk is huge. That is why BMW won't CPO the E60. Even they can't assume that kind of risk. I bought mine at a great price at just under 100,000 miles and it has been a money pit ever since. At 100,000 miles, it is just a roulette wheel.
__________________
2000 Oxford Green/Extended Caramel
Split folding seats with ski bag
Alacantra headliner
Mk. IV nav upgrade v.27
16:9 monitor
UF Motorsport Intake air temp. sensor relocation
Bimmernav Bluetooth
PowerChip 93
Royal Purple Synchromax
OEM First Aid Kit
Hardwired V1
AA CAI
Bavarian Auto Angel Eye update
Supersprint headers, SS X-pipe and Evo Racing Cats
Dinan Stage 2 suspension
Dinan 3.45 Diff
Last edited by Mike Krieger; 25th September 2007 at 19:48.
Thanks for the great replies so far. Also just to let everyone know the asking for the car is $20,000 OBO. The seller says he will 'consider any offer' and the car has been on craigslist for a few weeks already.
I would also make sure that you don't have carbon build up. It will not affect performance, but it does make it difficult to pass the smog test. Your state probably has strict smog rules. Sellers clear the SES light, then let you drive it. You need to start the car several times before the light comes back on so on your test drive, I would pull over from time to time and turn off the car. The tech that does your PPI may also see the codes if he pulls them.
__________________
2000 Oxford Green/Extended Caramel
Split folding seats with ski bag
Alacantra headliner
Mk. IV nav upgrade v.27
16:9 monitor
UF Motorsport Intake air temp. sensor relocation
Bimmernav Bluetooth
PowerChip 93
Royal Purple Synchromax
OEM First Aid Kit
Hardwired V1
AA CAI
Bavarian Auto Angel Eye update
Supersprint headers, SS X-pipe and Evo Racing Cats
Dinan Stage 2 suspension
Dinan 3.45 Diff
I love my 00 M5, which I bought new. It currently has 85k miles, no major repairs; it didn't even need new brake pads until 75k.
But, all in all, if I were in your shoes, I would buy a nice E39 540i. For street driving it's 90% of an M5, and my buddies have been buying nice ones for $12 to $15k.
Bought my 2000 M5 with 100.000 miles on it....now it has almost 120.000 miles....the 20.000 in 7 months have been trouble free. Only had to replace the valve cams gaskets because of oil leakage.
I was hasitating before buying, but since the BMW dealer gave my 6 months warranty i felt comfortable buying one.
I haven't regret it for one moment !!!!
Oil usage is 1 liter in 2000 km...but I absolutely FLOOR this car ....so oil consumption is normal...
I will drive this car until the motor fall apart and really don't know what other car should replace it...I have been looking at the RS6 and E60 M5, but both are to expensive to use as a daily driver for me....
I bought the M5 at a good price and for that kind of money NOTHING can give me the pleasure the M5 does....
My advice: buy the car at a GOOD price, make sure it was maintained well...have it inspected (leek test, clutch, brakes, suspension etc...) and if they can't give you a warranty make sure you pay the absolute minimum ! Afyer buying it replace all fluids....and give yourself 500 miles to run-in the car...
Knowing how good the car has been to me, i would even buy one with 150.000 miles for the RIGHT price...
Hope this helps....good luck !
Edit: just read that you will only own it for 1 year...in that case: only buy it at a good price...but still have it inspected to avoid 1 year of troubles...
Last edited by E39_540; 27th September 2007 at 11:12.
I'm going to look at a 2000 M5 tomorrow with slightly over 100,000 miles. I've called my local BMW shop (Strictly BMW) and will of course take it for a PPI if the car passes my visual/driving inspection. I'm curious if anyone has a M5 over 100k and what your experience may be? The owner has told me he recently replaced a camshaft sensor, clutch, and a few other smaller items. He said the car needs brakes as well. The car is priced very aggressively, and I'd be comfortable doing the brakes in at this price (assuming a brake job will run me around 2k). What are the gotchas I can expect with a car of this age? What maintenance should have been done (water pumps, timing belts, etc....)
If this car doesn't check out I'll end up getting an S60-R later in the week. I've had a E36 coupe in the past and loved it. Recently sold my 993 and miss it, although it wasn't nearly fast enough I'm driving a 2000 Audi A6 2.7t with all sorts of suspension and engine upgrades and now am looking for something a little more comfortable for every day driving. I won't own the car more than a year or so likely, so I don't need the 150k prognosis.
Thanks in advance for the replies!
In a word no. I am betting that with that many miles and you do not have any ideas about what type of miles they were, the odds are way against you. Too many things can go wrong with these cars if they have not been very well maintained that will cost you 30% or more of the price you are looking to purchase.
Find a 2003 with the least amount of miles and get a warranty. Great car if there are no issues, but its what you don't know here that will get very expensive down the road should issues arise.
Mark
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MY2001 Imola Red
Lux. Black Interior
Painted Calipers,
AC Schzitner Type III Two Piece 18 chrome wheels, Stage II HID's Low Beams and Foglights, Supersprint X-pipe (removed).
Autowerke CAI
Powerchip Software Upgrade
Stage I upgrade MB Quarts Speakers from Bavarian Soundwerks (our sponsor here)
Tubi Catback Exhaust
361RWHP
425HP and growing!
I have an 2001 Ti/Blk M5 with 115,000 miles. No major problems so far. I used to drive 55 each way to work on empty hwy roads in TX. I'm going to put it up for sale for 19,000 soon. It needs brakes, rear view mirror (minor liquid), right cup holder, and replacing the cats before the sale. The car still pulls very strong and no clutch issues.
Heh, this turned out more of a for sale ad. But anyways...my car is great and I'd rather own this 100k+ mile BMW than a 50k+ mile AMG.
I'm driving a 2000 Audi A6 2.7t with all sorts of suspension and engine upgrades and now am looking for something a little more comfortable for every day driving. I won't own the car more than a year or so likely, so I don't need the 150k prognosis.
....so oil consumption is normal...
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