Hi guys,
i'm new here and i have problems with my E39 M5
It al started last monday i went to an BMW meeting at a track in Zolder.
There some guys with an E46 M3 and another E39 M5 told me they could arrange a upgrade for my Nav. I told them they could try to upgrade it.
But my whole Nav blocked. The Cd with the upgrade wouldn't come out of the Nav thing..
Than they unhooked the battery to reset the Nav. After long working it finally came out. But while we drove home the car acted very strange.
the whole time the speedo meter didn't work and the screen fell out en the car drove strange. Then when I came home a friend told me to check the battery in the back. And yes it wasn't how it's supposed to be. I setted everything right and the car drove normal again. But today, suddenly the car shuts completely down. It doesn't want to do anything. It wouldn't start, the trunk won't open, nothing worked. Even the interior lights wouldn't work.
I just have the car for 6 weeks now. And I had around 2600 euro on costs with BMW. Now this happens, does anyone knows what it might be?
thanks!
As said above, you need to turn the master key counter clock-wise and use a bit of controlled force. Have a look at Locked myself out of trunk.
Your problems sounds like a dead battery or the negative lead that has come off. Good luck
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Anders
'02 BMW M5 (Carbon black / black leather)
Stock apart from Eisenmann Sport, E60 545 short shifter mod, MKIV nav and Intravee II
ex '01 BMW 530D Touring (Sterling grey / beige leather)
ex '98 Mercedes C43 T AMG (Smaragd schwarz / black leather)
ex '99 BMW M Coupé (Cosmos black/ black-kyalami leather)
ex '93 Alfa Romeo 164 24V Super (Silver / black leather)
Turn the master key all the way to the left ... it may be hard to turn as you will be engaging the mechanical locking system which has probably never been used. It's in the Owner's Manual (page 32 in the 2003 manual).
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"The greatest obstacle to discovery is not ignorance; it is the illusion of knowledge."
Jump the car. Open hood, there is a remote battery terminal. It is on the drivers side on U.S/LHD cars. Complete the circuit by grounding against metal along the fender or in the engine compartment. That will at least give you enough power to open the trunk to check the battery itself if you can't get the trunk open manually.
To avoid any power spike, consider turning on the running lights before you hook up your jumper battery so there is no jolt to the electrical system.
Regards,
Jerry
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'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit, open brake ducts, Hamann front splitters, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, 6k super white low beams, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit
Linear Mode
