Go Back   The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com) > BMW M5, M5 Touring, M6 and Z8 Forums > E34 M5 Discussion

E34 M5 Discussion 1988-1995 Sedan and Touring

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 2nd July 2007, 01:17   #1
richardbaxter
Member, Sport: On DSC: Off
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: united kingdom

Garage:

Sales Feedback: (0)

Thanks: 42
Thanked 52 Times in 29 Posts
Jacking point

I have just removed the sill covers on my 1993 3.8 saloon because there was quite a rusty area around the front jacking points. As I prodded around the internal domed area a hole emerged! The domed area came away on the inside. What to do?

The surrounding areas seem sound so my thinking is to purchase the outer sill and then cut and shut this rusty area - what are the comments on this?
richardbaxter is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 2nd July 2007, 09:54   #2
farrell
Company Representative for DARJAC Racing
 
farrell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Residential home
Age: 73

Garage: E34 //M5 3.8 Avus blue

Sales Feedback: (4)

Thanks: 117
Thanked 157 Times in 113 Posts
Hard one to call sight unseen.
Front sill jacking points seem to be a collector for all road grime & salt.
I guess I would try & do a local repair if all other metal is sound.
Can you get some pics ?

Cheers
farrell is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2007, 01:24   #3
richardbaxter
Member, Sport: On DSC: Off
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: united kingdom

Garage:

Sales Feedback: (0)

Thanks: 42
Thanked 52 Times in 29 Posts
I decided this evening to drill out the 4 spot welds on the outside fitted strengthening plate (with the hole in the centre to locate the jack). The cill metal was quite weakened where the plate is attached and managed to peek a look inside the section.

Directly above the plate there is a verticle strengthening section which has rusted away at the point where the plate is fixed. I have left the plate in a soloution to dissolve the rust and removed the rubberised protectant sufficient to reveal good metal.

Fortunately the rust is quite localised and not reached the tricky forward curved section. My feeling is to cut out the rusty metal with a tiny cutting wheel which will reveal more of the inside condition so that the vertical section can be assessed.

Hopefully! I can fabricate new pieces using the rusty sections as a template to form new pieces to weld in. However some of these pieces have radiuses and I'm contemplating forming a sand cast to form a cast iron template which I can then press a piece of metal to accurately replicate the shapes required - high ideas and then theres the issue of properly welding the internal parts to the outer cill!!!

There could be some disturbed sleep before nailing this one..........
richardbaxter is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2007, 09:56   #4
davidoli
M5 Expert (>4000)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Suffolk

Garage: E34 M5 3.6 Sebring Grey

Sales Feedback: (0)

Thanks: 507
Thanked 237 Times in 182 Posts
How'd you sleep last night Rich ?

In my experience , it's better to cut out all of the corroded metal and weld in new metal although it is one of the most traumatic things I have had to do on a car , chopping bits of original metal away !

At least once it's all done you will have the certainty of knowing that it's all good , rust free metal , around there .

Good luck ........D
__________________
Better a day as a tiger than a lifetime as a sheep !

91 Sebring 3.6

E28 UK RHD M5
davidoli is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 5th July 2007, 11:06   #5
farrell
Company Representative for DARJAC Racing
 
farrell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Residential home
Age: 73

Garage: E34 //M5 3.8 Avus blue

Sales Feedback: (4)

Thanks: 117
Thanked 157 Times in 113 Posts
Hi Richard
Sounds like an excellent approach to the problem.
I know Davidoli has been busy with a cutting wheel on the inner wings & flitches on his first E28.
He's done well.

What has been raised here is something that many members may want to inspect.
My front o/s jacking point went rather crumbly a couple of yrs ago.
I resorted to hot blasting & a little welding & resealed & painted.
Its holding up so far.
The proactive approach to the front sill jacking points seem to be a weakness in this
otherwise tough galvanised super saloon....or is exacerbated by the UK & its love of salting the roads at every opportunity ?

Cheers
Farrell
farrell is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2007, 00:35   #6
richardbaxter
Member, Sport: On DSC: Off
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: united kingdom

Garage:

Sales Feedback: (0)

Thanks: 42
Thanked 52 Times in 29 Posts
jacking point

I've delved a little further into the rotten front jacking point and its not a happy scene.

I first drilled out the spot welds on the heavy duty bracket (which locates the jack) The cill is sandwiched between this and a further heavy duty member which has the 'hollow' ( which is also a jack location).

As I was doing this lots of flaky rust was falling down. As the cill at this point was pretty thin I removed this inner hollow section by forcing it out. With a torch I could see there is a vertical section which takes the jack loading upto the car and should have been attached to the hollow section but rust has had its day so there was no support!

If I had used the jack it is likely that the cill would have given way so thanks be I had not - otherwise the deformation and damage would be horrendous.

So I decided to cut out the visible rusty area around. This allowed me to see inside as to exactly what was going on. This is a section where three panels meet, the outer cill, the inner cill and the floor - all of which are worse for wear.

In trying to repair this section which in dimensional terms covers an area of approx 200mm in length and 60mm in height is tricky because the original formation is all welded inside the cill.

My idea at present is to either replace the whole area with new parts which are extensive to deal with (essentially a very small area) or try to refabricate the sections one by one, this will require some pretty handy shaping, welding and redesigning to enable the work to proceed in what is otherwise a totally encased area.

One has I feel to balance this with the value of the car against making sure the work is thorough and to remove all the rusty sections. Somehow the refabrication makes more sense as less of the original panels have to be removed and the costs are negligable save for a lot of thinking and doing time which after all is the only freebie in this world.

However first I would like to obtain a cost for having the work done to keep it totally to spec such as would be the case if it was a repair needed due to some accident damage.

There is however a challenge and satisfaction for being able to crack this by doing it myself. So far I have been looking at equiping myself with some quality tools of the miniture kind to see if a good repair can be carried out in this very confined space............
richardbaxter is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2007, 00:47   #7
richardbaxter
Member, Sport: On DSC: Off
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: united kingdom

Garage:

Sales Feedback: (0)

Thanks: 42
Thanked 52 Times in 29 Posts
jacking point

a further thought about this issue........... it concerns me that this could be a real weak point on these cars- primarily because everything looks so benign underneath the plastic bodykit that no one would consider this to be an issue.

It is only because I removed this body kit and started to poke around with a screwdriver that the issue became apparant and who would normally check?

Left undetected the rust would just keep creeping through these completely hidden areas until the floor rusted through and wet carpets caused one to investigate or indeed the jack collapsed!

Time to check I feel!
richardbaxter is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2007, 01:07   #8
Sebring NL
M5 Expert (>4000)
 
Sebring NL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: E66 livingroom
Age: 27

Garage: Sebringgrau HD91,Diamantschwarz DC71, Sterlingsilber HA01 , Glanzschwarz 1531 , Delphingrau 1531 , Polarissilber 1531

Sales Feedback: (0)

Thanks: 28
Thanked 208 Times in 119 Posts
The part where the official jacking points reside is very hard to work on.

I could tell you what to do but it would take 2 pages or 5 minutes of finger pointing.

Sorry.

Wout
Sebring NL is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2007, 09:56   #9
farrell
Company Representative for DARJAC Racing
 
farrell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Residential home
Age: 73

Garage: E34 //M5 3.8 Avus blue

Sales Feedback: (4)

Thanks: 117
Thanked 157 Times in 113 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebring NL View Post
The part where the official jacking points reside is very hard to work on.

I could tell you what to do but it would take 2 pages or 5 minutes of finger pointing.

Sorry.

Wout

Hi Wout.
I know you are pressed for time.
Could you take some pics with some arrows put on as an indicator
in place of finger pointing.
That might help ?
Front jack points are becoming an increasing problem.

Farrell
farrell is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 11th July 2007, 14:36   #10
Sebring NL
M5 Expert (>4000)
 
Sebring NL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: E66 livingroom
Age: 27

Garage: Sebringgrau HD91,Diamantschwarz DC71, Sterlingsilber HA01 , Glanzschwarz 1531 , Delphingrau 1531 , Polarissilber 1531

Sales Feedback: (0)

Thanks: 28
Thanked 208 Times in 119 Posts
As soon as my car is on the hoist ( still don't have all the parts!!) I will make some pics and write a brief summary.
Sebring NL is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post! Add this post to your Facebook Profile Add this post to MySpaceStumble this Post!Google Bookmark this Post!Live Bookmark this Post!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Travel report E34 ///M5 meeting in the Alps 1-4 Sept 2006 raymondw Regional Forums and Events and group meetings for M5, M6 and Alpina owners 9 14th August 2007 14:05
Front Jacking Point? Hawkwind E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 18 29th May 2007 00:13
Tire temps from Laguna, Thunderhill, Sears Point stever E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 2 11th July 2002 18:30
Opening for Sears Point Driving School on Thur. Feb 15 PaulMarin E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1 13th February 2001 08:13

eXTReMe Tracker

All times are GMT +2. The time now is 19:54.


Everything Copyright 2000-2008. Do not use ANYTHING from this site without written permission. All images, graphics, sound files, video files and text appearing on this web site are the exclusive property of m5board.com and are protected under international copyright laws. All images, graphics, sound files, video files and text on this site are for on-screen and on-site viewing and listening only. No part of this web site may be reproduced, copied, saved, stored, manipulated, or used in any form for personal or commercial purposes without the prior written permission of m5board.com. Use of any image or graphic as the basis for another photographic concept or illustration is a violation of the copyright. Any copyright infringement will be prosecuted to the full extent of federal and international copyright laws. M5board.com is an enthusiast board and we don't condone any dangerous activity. Our airfield events are completely safe based on years of experience, we conduct them during clear visibility with mature participants that have several years of experience with high-performance automobiles, large unobstructed run-off zones on sealed off private former military airbases and we clearly mark the braking zones. If inexperienced with high speed driving we do not recommend organizing your own event but attending a high-performance driving school. The use of the term "BMW" on this site is for reference only, and does not imply any connection between m5board.com and BMW AG or BMW North America.
Page generated in 0.14200 seconds with 12 queries