What Oil? - Page 2 - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

de Witt · 4th January 2002, 08:01

Quote:

Originally posted by Calgary3.6
I'm using Redline 10W40 with changes every January (2002 will be my first actual Redline change, but I digress...).

I've only conusmed about 300ml over the last year and 14,000kms. Yes, I treat the engine gently until 60-70C oil temp, but then lookout! Redline in the crank case, Redline on the tach.

What sort of oil change interval are you calculating with the Redline? Any problems with leaks? Sounds like you are happy with it!

Calgary3.6 · 4th January 2002, 08:15

My annual milage/kilometerage is 18-20,000kms. Redline suggests the interval can be up to 20,000 miles (30,000km). I do change the filter as a precaution in late August - usually prior to our annual long road trip. The oil is due for a change now, and it is still just a nice dark brown colour.

I have no real leaks to speak of. Admittedly, the block and oil pan are damp, though. I do have a bad "o" ring where the oil drains from the head to the block (under #6 header pipe). This "o" ring will be changed next week.

Changing the topic a bit:

If I open the oil cap whilst the engine is idling, no change is evident. Both my '88 325is and my '90 535 would react to this air leak by increasing the idle 2-300rpm then running rough with misses and sputters. Shouldn't the M5 do this also?? Can anybody confirm or check and advise??

Thanks,

Anthony

de Witt · 4th January 2002, 08:23

Quote:

Originally posted by Calgary3.6
Changing the topic a bit:

If I open the oil cap whilst the engine is idling, no change is evident. Both my '88 325is and my '90 535 would react to this air leak by increasing the idle 2-300rpm then running rough with misses and sputters. Shouldn't the M5 do this also?? Can anybody confirm or check and advise??

Thanks,

Anthony

Hmmm, possibly the S38 is able to adjust quicker/better for the increase in air by decreasing the amout taken in. I have never done this, though if it sputters and misses (even on an M20 engine) I would not advise it (especially on the S38!)

Calgary3.6 · 5th January 2002, 02:54

Perhaps I should clarify -

Exchange "sputter and miss" to "stumble and waver". The effect is really not as extreme as to cause worry about damaging anything.

On the M20 and M30, the check engine light would also come on after a few (say 5 or 6) seconds of running with the cap off.

There has to be somebody sufficiently adventurous to give it a try and let me know!

Thanks,

Anthony

mikek · 5th January 2002, 16:31

I find mine runs well on Castrol Magnatec.

Regards

Mike K

Bryn · 5th January 2002, 23:24

I have Shell Helix in mine now. Runs great, no complaints so far. Don't know what weight unfortunately.

Bryn.

mikek · 5th January 2002, 23:59

Bryn,

Is helix fully synthetic??and how much is it???

regards

Mike k

Bryn · 6th January 2002, 17:52

Mike,

I believe its fully synthetic, but I am not certain. You can get it from Shell garages though, so might be worth having a look there.

Bryn.

klunk · 6th January 2002, 22:25

i run mine od 10w40 Magnatec, after advice from Munich Legends,
even apart from oil leaks, they said the chain tensioner requires this weight of oil to operate correctly.

it is my understanding that only cars with hydraulic lifters need thin oil, ie 5w, or 0w, in order to pump the lifters up quickly and efficiently at high rpm,

i used to run a kawasaki zx6r, which ran on 10w40 semi sythetic oil, as it used mechanical lifters, the same as the s38.

this is despite the engine redlining at 14500rpm.

correct me if i'm wrong.

klunk

Marek · 14th January 2002, 23:09

I use Amsoil 20w-50 in all my vehicles (M5 and SL500). I used to use Motul 300 synthetic 15W-50 which I liked a lot but it was too expensive.

http://www.oil-tech.com/ser20w50.htm
http://www.oil-tech.com/amscmpr.htm

Marek