Timing Chain Tensioner Thread That WILL be deleted!!

[IvanDias]

Hi,


When this thread is answered and the unit installed, I'll write it up, photograph it and delete this thread!


I pick up my E36 timing chain tensioner tomorrow.

As I understand it, the unit comes pretty much complete, it is better than the old one which came in lego form and required an Octopus to screw in correctly.

I cannot find an easy guide to fitting, with photos.



Queries:

Is the tensioner bolt on the side of the engine of the front? Any pics showing where?

I understand the washer bottle needs to come out. Is it just this bottle or the main coolant bottle?

Is it simply a case of unscrew the old one, pull it out, splash a bit of oil on the new one and bung it into the hole then do it up?

Does it have to go in "one way up" or anything?

If the chain is loose or worn, I hear theorectically that the chain can "slip" a notch. How? It hangs over the cam sprockets by gravity. I don't plan to take the cam cover off if avoidable, or is it the oil pump end that err... slips?

How on earth do I know whether this slip has happened or not?

If it did "jump a notch", am I looking at enough movement to hit pistons against valves on startup, or just a minor timing error resulting in less power/misfiring?

Would I notice it, is it dramatic enough that something is immediately knowable as wrong?

If it happens, how do I fix it? I'm poor with the MOT and Tax due this month, so cannot afford to tow to a garage and have the engine out!

I'm pretty sure the old one is leaking oil. Do I clean the area manually, or would judicious use of a non-steam pressure cleaner in that area alone do any harm before removing the old tensioner?

I hear it takes "half an hour" to swap the old complicated one for the new unit, as the new unit goes in very easily.

What spanners or sockets do I need? Might as well make sure I have all tools before crippling the car and having to walk to the shops!

Any tricky angles needing special/modified tools?

Any dupicate simultaneous items, like suddenly needing two sockets of 13mm being easier than a socket set and a spanner? lol!





I plan to camera the whole thing.
If it doesn't look a total nightmare I may even video it!



Accurate answers please! I plan to make a definitive tensioner change thread later, once and for all!



regards

Ivan

[illjah]

Originally Posted by IvanDias

Is the tensioner bolt on the side of the engine of the front? Any pics showing where?

this is vespam5's engine rebuild pic, you can see the outer circular diaphragm part of the old style tensioner towards the front of the engine.

Can't help with any of the other questions, as my mechanic did mine - it was a half hour job.

[IvanDias]

I saw that pic! Thanks. Is it the gold coloured bolt at the front in line with the exhaust exits?

Ivan

[Passmore]

Ivan, I guess you've seen seen this right?

http://bmwe34m5.com/faqs/?theme=1&le...nt_id_select=3

not the best pics, but a good explanation. If you've got a 3.8 with aircon it is much more of a b*****d than described though........

Passmore

[raymondw]

Originally Posted by Passmore

Ivan, I guess you've seen seen this right?

http://bmwe34m5.com/faqs/?theme=1&le...nt_id_select=3

Well, some people want to invent the wheel more then once.

[madm5]

Hi Ivan, I did this very recently, and my car has a/c. Just make sure you have a deep socket to put over the tensioner. The one I used completely undid the whole thing in one, after the diaphragm was removed. It's unbelievably easy to do, there is little room but it's very straight forward.

[jselig]

alright i just want to make sure i did this right before i start the engine...
old one came out no probs and the new one seemed to go in just as easy.
my question is this, will the new tensioner not screw in completely if it is not aligned properly? or will it screw in with the groove not on the rail?
thanks
jason

[milesr3]

Ivan,

I did mine a couple of months ago on a 3.6 with aircon. It was a lot easier than I was expecting.

You'll need to remove the two washer bottles. Not the coolant expansion tank. The pumps just pull out and the washer bottles lift out. You still can't see the tensioner, but I took a picture of it by poking a camer down there so that I could visualise what I was handling and where to clean.

The outer piston needs to go in with the slot (bleed hole) uppermost. Locate this on the tensioner then feed the body of the tensioner over it. This is very fiddly due to the lack of space and your fingers won't bend where they need to. You can only get one hand down there too. I did mine about ten times until I was happy that the piston had stayed in the right place. Filling the body with oil helps hold it in place as Raymond states in the FAQ "How to".

It took me less than an hour. Including cleaning around the old tensioner with a rag before starting and washing my hands afterwards.

You'll need a 17mm spanner for the diapragm, a 30mm socket for the outer part of the old tensioner and a 32mm socket for the inner part of the old one and the new one. I used regular (not deep) sockets. Anything too tall will foul on the thermostat housing. The old tensioner unscrewed completely by the 30mm part. You'll need some kind of UJ and a straight extension too although you'll screw/unscrew both parts by hand and you only need the socket to loosen and tighten it in place.

Didn't know about the risk of the chain jumping a notch. Glad I didn't.

Richard

[madm5]

Originally Posted by jselig

alright i just want to make sure i did this right before i start the engine...
old one came out no probs and the new one seemed to go in just as easy.
my question is this, will the new tensioner not screw in completely if it is not aligned properly? or will it screw in with the groove not on the rail?
thanks
jason

I think it probably would screw in if it's not aligned but i'm not sure how big an issue it is, because it may properly align itself with the vibrations of the chain against the tensioner bar, and if it's not aligned then the chain will run at a slightly higher tension (at a guess). I would do it again if you are not sure though, unscrew it, add the oil then screw it back in, holding it in alignment for as long as possible.

[jselig]

Originally Posted by madm5

I think it probably would screw in if it's not aligned but i'm not sure how big an issue it is, because it may properly align itself with the vibrations of the chain against the tensioner bar, and if it's not aligned then the chain will run at a slightly higher tension (at a guess). I would do it again if you are not sure though, unscrew it, add the oil then screw it back in, holding it in alignment for as long as possible.

how do you hold the tensioner bar in proper alignment if that is inside the nut which is threading into the block? very hard to put into words here.