Replacing the clutch... Need some sudgestions.. - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

E34M · 5th April 2006, 22:59

Hey guys

My e34 M5 currently has a re-built Kevlar clutch from euro-drive.. (This is Dimitrys old M) (http://www.euro-drive.com/performance.htm) the clutch has been slipping, so either its junked or there is oil in it somehow. Anyway.. I wanted some suggestions as to a replacement. The car already has an 8lb JB flywheel, so that’s done..The car has been modified..bored over, new pistons etc.. Aprox 380hp... I wont be tracking the car, but I do drive it hard.. I am looking at either a Kevlar disk from euro-drive or a UUC ceramic or their metallic-ceramic version.. Any suggestions would be a big help as I am not quite sure what to do here..[/color]

Thanks!

Mike Klein

farrell · 5th April 2006, 23:37

I suggest that you go back to the engine builder to see what he suggests.
How much torque is being generated over std.
Increasing the clamp load of the cover or changing the friction face material usually indicates greater torque/ power or track use where increased stress & shock loads are anticipated.

Is the transmission uprated with selected uprated syncronisers or modified gear sets.?
If not, its a std Getrag 280 which requires numerous regular oil changes & will expire if more load gets throught to it via the clutch.
Very often, the O/E manfacturer will strike a balance between function & durability.
Std clutches are designed to slip under persistant hard usage to save a very expensive part, ie the transmission.

If the disc is slipping under load & you find oil on investigation, that will be the rear mains crankshaft oil seal knocked off its seat.
Not unusual.

Farrell

E34M · 6th April 2006, 08:02

Tranny is stock..

ilovemy_e34 · 7th April 2006, 00:57

I will just pass a little bit of advice that my dad told me... "It is better to lose a clutch than a transmission"

If you are not using it for the track then it is probably best to stick with an OEM clutch.

BTW you should do the gear selector seal, output shaft seal, and the rear crank seal... the parts should not cost more than 60 USD. But will save tons of time.

Another quick note: My dad also told me, after years and years of experience, that you should cut down the spring on the output shaft seal... It will totally prolong the life of the job