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E34 M5 Discussion 1988-1995 Sedan and Touring

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post #31 of 53 Old 12th August 2006, 04:38 PM
Simonal
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Not having tried a Z3 "shirt shift kit" I cannot comment on the difference between the two.

All I can say is that the UUC item despite being very difficult to get hold of for all outside the US is a very good piece of kit.

I would agree that maybe over time the shift quality of the Z3 item may deteriorate but only time will tell.
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post #32 of 53 Old 12th August 2006, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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So far Ive had the shifter in my 3.6 for about 10k miles and about 5k miles in the 3.8.

It still feels exactly like the day I put it in - tiny bit notchy but precise and very positive to use.

Changing it is very very easy even for a simple minded home mechanic like myself and no way would I pay stupid amounts of money to a company like UUC.

Sal

Avus Blue 6 speed 3.8L E34 ///M5 Sedan
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post #33 of 53 Old 12th August 2006, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyrus
So far Ive had the shifter in my 3.6 for about 10k miles and about 5k miles in the 3.8.

It still feels exactly like the day I put it in - tiny bit notchy but precise and very positive to use.

Changing it is very very easy even for a simple minded home mechanic like myself and no way would I pay stupid amounts of money to a company like UUC.

Sal
Ditto! Very worthwhile mod,wouldnt be without mine,too much time is wasted changing gear!

Dan.

'90 M5- Sebring Grey
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post #34 of 53 Old 15th August 2006, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nixter
any update on the part numbers for all associated bits?

cheers,

n
(i know this is old)
x2
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post #35 of 53 Old 5th September 2006, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farrell
Gear clash is where you dont fully engage the gears when the clutch is depressed. If the pivot ratio of the throw is not quite right, then you get a clash of gear sets as you select from one ratio to another.

It feels similar to a badly baulked gear change but the gear does engage.

Hard to explain but easy to feel.
Farrell,

I recently had a Autosolutions.net short shift kit installed. It's very high quality manufacture and the short throws are fantastic... But, it's rediculously notchy and takes considerable effort to.. say, pull back from first to engage second. Side to side isn't really an issue though.

I'm wondering if I am experiencing "gear clash" and don't even know it. I don't hear anything that sounds like when you release the clutch before the gears are engaged (bad shift)... but it seems like something isn't right.

Can you explain to me what it feels like.. What causes it?? You said something about the pivot ratio. Unfortunately, I did not install it, so I did not compare directly to the one that came out, but it bolted up with no fitment issues.

Either that, or my shifter is just VERY NOTCHY.
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post #36 of 53 Old 10th September 2006, 02:32 AM
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You need a weighted knob. That makes all the difference.

A Freudian slip is where you say one thing and you mean your mother.
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post #37 of 53 Old 10th September 2006, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calgary3.6
You need a weighted knob. That makes all the difference.
suposedly a heavy knob can accelerate the wear on the plastic and rubber bushings. a weighted selector rod will remove the notchyness as well. you can either spend $60 or 80 bucks on a nice heavy billet piece, or wrap your factory item in electric solder, then ductape the whole unit to keep the solder from unraveling
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post #38 of 53 Old 10th September 2006, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WMWNWMN
suposedly a heavy knob can accelerate the wear on the plastic and rubber bushings. a weighted selector rod will remove the notchyness as well. you can either spend $60 or 80 bucks on a nice heavy billet piece, or wrap your factory item in electric solder, then ductape the whole unit to keep the solder from unraveling
Not sure I agree about adding weight to the selector rod giving the same result. I have the UUC EVO SSK and DSSR. Yes, big $$ but...

When first installed with the OE (light/lighted) knob the shifting was horribly "notchy" and fetching second for downshifts was a bear even with the EVO arm set to the longest length (greatest MA). This with the DSSR that probably weighs 3-4x the OE selector rod.

Adding the RK2 made all the difference for me. After installation, I re-set the EVO arm to its shortest setting and could stand to go shorter still.

Here's a pic with the 2 setups side by side (wrong DSSR - my supplier screwed up - photo was to show the supplier the problem):

A Freudian slip is where you say one thing and you mean your mother.
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post #39 of 53 Old 11th September 2006, 08:50 AM
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post #40 of 53 Old 11th September 2006, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nixter
What's an "RK2"?

n
RK2 is the second generation "Rob Knob" from UUC. About 2 pounds of machined stainless steel makes a shift knob for C$145 - 2" diameter. The RK Magnum is heavier and another 3/16" dia.

A Freudian slip is where you say one thing and you mean your mother.
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