A clutch question - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

Steven · 8th September 2003, 03:54

M5ers,
Is there an estimated time the clutch should take to fully seat or "break in"?

I just replaced mine the other day and I'm getting a bit of slip in 3rd( the power gear).

Please help before I pull apart the tranny again. Thanks

mblaster · 8th September 2003, 05:45

I just had a new clutch and fly wheel resurfaced with all the associated stuff replaced. There was no breakin that I was made aware of. I just did a screaming canyons drive with a big group with no more than 100 miles on the new stuff. I hope everything is ok with your car.

Mmm-Five · 8th September 2003, 12:30

I was told to keep it very smooth with no hard acceleration until at least 500 miles.

I have 3000 on it now and it is fine!

Norm · 8th September 2003, 13:27

My clutch just got changed about three (3) weeks ago. I was told to go easy and let it bed in. The previous clutch was slipping in the first three (3) gears when I would launch. The power delivery was well below par. I didn't heed the dealers advice because in the past with previous cars it was simply a case of "just get in and drive baby".
The M is one powerful mother again!

jrturbo · 8th September 2003, 16:49

Hi there

Its recomended in most cases when a new clutch has been installed to drive it gently untill the clutch has bedded in, 500 miles should be enough for that to take place, the same as you would not brake hard on new pads, the same principle applies.
if the flywheel is slightly scored or ridged could be the reason for the clutch slipping under full load.

So back off the accelerator and put some more miles on before going for max acceleration through the gears.

Regards

Joe Rubido

Alan Archer · 8th September 2003, 19:10

You should always take it easy on a new clutch so
as not to glaze the new friction surfaces.

Any slip should be non existant !

Possible causes of slip are as follows>

1) Contamination of new centre plate/pressure plate
(due to poor workmanship)

2) Oil leaking from gearbox rear seal causing slip (or overfilled
gearbox fluid)

3) (the terrible..) they only changed the centre plate and NOT the
pressure plate....this means you have plenty of "bite" but no
pressure...so when you really demand of it (high revs 3rd gear)
it starts to slip.

Check your paperwork for parts changed,

and take it back !

regards,

Alan Archer.

mblaster · 9th September 2003, 08:56

OK...maybe I took it easy for 300 or so miles

Steven · 9th September 2003, 13:51

Well, when I changed the clutch I also changed the pressure plate, pilot bearing t/o bearing, tranny input shaft seal, rear crank seal, gear selector rod seal, flex disc, center bearing and all the exhaust gaskets. It all ( except the drive line stuff) comes in a complete kit from bavauto.com. The problem I noticed is that the oil pan gasket is rock hard. When I was changing the rear crank seal I noticed the oil pan gasket was very hard and brittle, so I sealed up the rear seal and placed the order for the oil pan gasket. I have noticed a slight leak now from that spot. I'm hoping I can get the oil pan gasket on there before the clutch disc gets saturated with oil. Man, taking that tranny out is not fun.

Anyway, I'll keep you all up to speed.

Alan Archer · 9th September 2003, 19:38

Hey Steve,

my apologies !

Didnt spot you'd done the work yourself hence the comment
of "workmanship" aimed straight at the dealer !!

Hope its just the gasket & the oil burns off quick.

Regards,

Alan Archer.

mblaster · 10th September 2003, 03:23

You are da man for tackeling that job. Made me tired just watching the guys work on my car, and these guys had all the gear. PS had to do my oil pan gasket too during the clutch job. You wont find it fun either, 4-5.5 hours labor to replace a $40 part

Good luck