jacking blocks question - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

Elekta · 8th June 2009, 01:37

What do you use when you don't use the oem car jack? I have a 3 ton shack from Sears and the round 4" cup can't really do much but trash the MTech skirt while it jacks up the car. I am looking to remove the right front wheel to check the acceleration sensor..try and get it ID'd or fired up before a road trip to Marathon, TX (6 hour road trip out West).

If you don't jack it up from the jacking point where else would you put it before lifting the car.

Wife has gone to FL with the kids, and I actually have some time to DIY for a few days. (which would translate into take it apart and then find someone to help put it back together - w/o a spouse editorializing

Sadly, yes I am this lame, but if I can sort this sensor issue, I won't have to deal with my buddy asking me every 5 miles or so what the EDC error message is all about.

Konfused Pete · 8th June 2009, 05:07

Get the jack right in the middle of the front subframe. it'll easily lift the whole front.

also there is a big engine carrier member running half the length of the car starting at the firewall either side of the engine.
as per pic:

mottati · 8th June 2009, 08:04

nice looking undercarriage Pete!

Konfused Pete · 8th June 2009, 09:37

not mine. i can't even remember where i found that pic. i thought it was a good one though!

Lantz · 8th June 2009, 10:29

I usually use the chassi-rails (also shown in the pic) when changing my front tyres. Works a treat and much easier than using the OEM jack.

Lantz

corneredge · 8th June 2009, 15:55

You can also use a 2x4 peice of wood on the sill where the factor jack would go. this protects the sill and provides a wider surface area. Just be careful about slippage. I use this to jack with my conventional jack, and then use the frame rails for the jack stands.

Elekta · 8th June 2009, 16:19

gah,

what a great pic. thank you.

so-looking in the upper left at the front right wheel and strut...that line is the brake line of course. The acceleration sensor is out of view up above the disc? Is it going to have a little screw cap with a wire coming out of it?

That's project one, and then replacing the main windshield washer pump. My fingers are too fat to pinch that connector...won't needle nose destroy it? Will the pump and connector come out together after I disco the hose?

wife and kids left for Naples,FL yesterday. This is rare opportunity to actually do something myself for once. I have a 50th bday party to attend at Marathon, TX

street view google maps is so cool.

290>I-10 is the shortest distance with legal 80 mph limits, but if I had an excuse to get to san antonio, taking 90 thru hondo and uvalde to del rio is much more scenic in the wide open spaces type driving

I-10 is 394 miles 6 hours 24
90 is 407 miles. 7 hours 28

I know it can be done in 5 hours if you eat lunch in the car and fast fuel.

Ratty · 8th June 2009, 17:45

I drive mine up onto two blocks of wood about 2 inches high, one under
each front wheel.. then the trolley jack goes straight under anywhere you want.

The Oem jack always seems to risk pushing the door panel in when the car's lowered

dscam · 9th June 2009, 00:19

Excellent picture and explanations here! A silly question, but those arms on the four post lift look as though they are on the standard jacking point spots - surely this is likely to cause damage to the side skirts in the same way a trolley jack would on these points?

Konfused Pete · 9th June 2009, 05:55

To me they look like they're on the actual sill / floor pan seam - which is far worse. good way to simultaneously mangle the seam and destroy the pvc underseal and paint.