Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil_e34M5
I just checked my car out. It turned out to be these bolts were a bit on the loose side. We tightened them up and no more clunk sound.
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Check Bolt #13 (17/18mm head) also which is much larger bolt than shown and is almost 3 inches long. It torques to a high figure also. If it just slightly loose and it will give metallic click sound and is clearly present when you drive over a metal angle strip at the bottom of a rolling gate otherwise it may seldom be noticeable. USE locktite on this bolt as there is no Nylock nut on the end of it.
Also when torquing bolts #4 and #9 make sure it is loose (nylock will be snug already) first and put car on ground before torquing. If you torque when wheel is off ground it will twist the bush and strain it when placed on the ground. The best way is from a 4 post chassis lift with car on all four wheels. Do not tighten it from a 2 post body lift when the wheels hang down unsupported. Remember when it is on the ground its very difficult to tighten as few of us can get under the vehicle and exert enough strength (when lying down on your back) to torque it properly. Or you can drop weight of front of vehicle onto a couple of stacked wheel tire combos on each side so there is enough crawl space to get underneath to tighten. Bentley barely mentions this but it ain't so easy or so obvious.
Also Bolt #9 is problematic in that there isn't enough room to get a box wrench on one end because the bolt head is too close to the body. Ideally 2 opposed box end wrenches(or socket and then a torque wrench on the nut end) should be used to torque it but it wont go over the bolt head so you must use the open end of the wrench which will slip off due to to high a torque figure and round the nut/or head. Nor is there enough space to get a socket over the bolt head end only a open end wrench. Even if you can turn the bolt around the same issue presents itself ...so I found that you might lower the tube(#1) enough to get a box end wrench over the head of the bolt then lower the car and then tighten it (#9) then raise car and let tube drop enough to get wrench off, all a little squirrelly, then retighten tube. Okay if its a customer car and you don't care about rounded off nuts and bolt heads or torque figures but not on my vehicle not when I know I'll be there again eventually and torque figures matter to me especially on suspension parts (once a rear wheel passed me when I pulled to a stop at a signal light because I neglected to properly torque it .....never again). I found you can get it fairly tight when its on the ground then reraise it on a 2 post lift and torque it then since you've pinched the bush snug enough that it won't rotate when you lift it in the air. A little hard to explain but its very obvious if you've been there.
Its all because of item #1 (one) is present. Can someone please tell me what it is called? My reference (Bentley) doesn't even show it nor does the dealers but it exists on the 540i and the M5 but I'm not sure it exists on the other E34's. Where does the above pictorial reference come from? Bentley shows the lower control arm attaching to 2 tabs directly on the chassis and not the additional tube(#1) for regular E34s.
Note the drawing of item #1 is not symmettrical and incomplete on the right side as shown and does not tell the full story.
Ross
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