my 3.8L was down from mid april-the end of july. In that time i replaced all coolant hoses/t-stat and water pump, as well as new front and rear brakes.
anyways, i've driven the car 3 times, with one stint up to 240kph. the engine oil temp creaps past the 90c mark and sits about 95c. water temp stays dead center.
I never remember the oil temp going past 90c before.
also, i now only get hot air out of the HVAC. this will be great for the winter, but were still 4 months off from cold weather, and i'm dying here with the windows up and 180kph!
My Bi-Turbo runs around 85, except in the summer when anything up to 100 is normal if you include traffic. 118 on the Ring and anywhere in between on the Autobahn (not UK Motorways) above 200kmh.
According to the handbook, the RS 10/60 in my car is good for 125 (or more) without problems so I don't think your 95 degrees is anything to worry about.
also, i now only get hot air out of the HVAC. this will be great for the winter, but were still 4 months off from cold weather, and i'm dying here with the windows up and 180kph!
If the drivers side temperature control is set to "Max Heat", the car will turn all heaters on and ignore the sensors. If that switch that detects the drivers side dial set to max has failed in the on position, that could cause the problem. More likely is Allan Archer's diagnosis in the thread.
Regards,
Reg.
__________________
from THE Antipodes , the real Land of Aus.
"You're gunna die of something, it might as well be fun !"
'88 Ducati 851 Superbike Strada - the original tricolour
'83 Ducati Mike Hailwood Replica - "900" kick start
Imagine a luxo like an E38 "L" with the current 4.0L Diesel !
my 3.8L was down from mid april-the end of july. In that time i replaced all coolant hoses/t-stat and water pump, as well as new front and rear brakes.
anyways, i've driven the car 3 times, with one stint up to 240kph. the engine oil temp creaps past the 90c mark and sits about 95c. water temp stays dead center.
I never remember the oil temp going past 90c before.
I'm no oil expert, but here's something to consider.
Does the oil viscosity you're using in the car match the viscosity recommended by BMW for the ambient temperature you're experiencing.
If the oil you're running is a higher viscosity (particularly the second number of the viscosity because that's the viscosity of the oil at temperature) than the recommended oil viscosity, the oil will take longer to flow through the engine and I'm guessing it will collect more heat.
Just something to think about.
Reg.
__________________
from THE Antipodes , the real Land of Aus.
"You're gunna die of something, it might as well be fun !"
'88 Ducati 851 Superbike Strada - the original tricolour
'83 Ducati Mike Hailwood Replica - "900" kick start
Imagine a luxo like an E38 "L" with the current 4.0L Diesel !
I'm no oil expert, but here's something to consider.
Does the oil viscosity you're using in the car match the viscosity recommended by BMW for the ambient temperature you're experiencing.
If the oil you're running is a higher viscosity (particularly the second number of the viscosity because that's the viscosity of the oil at temperature) than the recommended oil viscosity, the oil will take longer to flow through the engine and I'm guessing it will collect more heat.
Just something to think about.
Reg.
That's a good point. If you're using thicker oil it won't circulate through the block as fast as thinner oil does. So it collects more heat running slower through the block.
I'm not going to be too surprised if you say you're running 10w60 in the car as that'd cause it to run warmer.
Does the oil viscosity you're using in the car match the viscosity recommended by BMW for the ambient temperature you're experiencing.
Just something to think about.
Reg.
i've had the same experience with my e39, that i used to track quite a bit. Going from tws (10w60) to a 5w40 oil lowered my on track oil temp by about 15F on a warm day. My e39 is a late 00 model year, so tws is not a requirement for it.
__________________
Mike
91 M5 Alpine White II, Silver Gray 3/90 production
17x8/17x9 M system with PS2, 20mm touring roll bar; Ground Control Coilovers; EAT Chip, CD43; bmw/nardi blackline steering wheel, 3.8 Cam Gears
08 535i / 6 speed
Space Gray; Gray; Sport/Premium/Nav
00 M5 Ti Silver; Imola/black sportiv --Sold
Engine:
Supersprint Headers, Dinan CAI kit and MAFS, Throttle Bodies, Cams, Ported heads, Exhaust, Custom dinan software, Evosport Pullies, Dinan clutch and lightened flywheel; Ignition solutions plasma coils
Suspension:
Dinan Stage 3 with front and rear Strut Tower Braces, Beastpower Sway bar brackets, Dinan Wheels with 275/285 PilotSport, X5 Thrust arm bushings, Stoptech 355mm 4 piston front, 355mm 2 piston rear brake kit, Dinan 3.45 diff
Interior/Misc:
Eurodash, updated steering wheel, Bluetooth retrofit, Sirius Retrofit, hardwired V1, Widescreen Mk4 nav, M audio retrofit, Ice Link, BSW Stage 1 speaker upgrade, bmw towbar
Although the value of my expertise in motor maintenance has dropped a little since my "hole in the pocket"
The Oil temp readings you mention makes me suspect a failed or stuck termostat in the oil filter housing.
This thermostat controls the bypass to the oilcooler and should operate between 90 and 110 degrees (Celcius)
If when the oil is @ 80-85 degrees you drop the hammer and accelerate to V-max the oil temp should gradually rise to 110 and then when the termostat opens...drop fast to the 85 -90 range and stay there.
Over time the thermostat can become sluggish and or seize in any given position. If its stuck in the open position it will take longer for the oil temp to reach 90 and will hardly ever get above this reading.
If stuck in closed or partially closed position the oil temp will gradually rise to 90 if the revs are below 4200 and continue to rise to 100 - 115 between 4200 - 5200 rpm it will continue to rise at rpm beyond this range but never above 120 125.
This is still within the operating range of any good oil (like TWS) although it should not be sustained for prolonged periods.
I had the same problem last year starting with increasing oiltemp readings in spring, but as these increments were very graduallly I did not notice it until the end of summer. Each time we worked on the car (which was not very frequent) I first checked and repositioned the ducting which was not aligned properly, no result, the next time I cleaned the cooler surface, no result. Then changed the sensors, again zilch.
Then Stevie told me about the thermostat (which is not mentioned on the OEM drawing) So I ordered a new oil filterhouse, oil cooler and the connecting hoses (the connectors of old hoses are prone to breaking when trying to disconnect them)
This cured the problem and resulted in the proper temp readings right up until the moment the #4 cillinder lost a big end bearing
(which was a non cause and effect incident)
with kind regards
Tamar
Last edited by midnightsun2; 8th August 2008 at 00:19.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to midnightsun2 For This Useful Post:
In my car the oil temperature in normal condition of use is 90c and the water temperature remains just before the half.
If i push on the highway or on roads of mountain the oil temperature climbs toward the 100c and at times also to 110c while that of
the water never overcomes in any case the half.
, the real Land of Aus.
the oil temp should gradually rise to 110 and then when the termostat opens...drop fast to the 85 -90 range and stay there.
Linear Mode
