Tyson1868

Raymond,

Is the sprocket #8 or #9? Why is #9 not listed?

RealOEM.com BMW E28 M5 Belt Drive-Vibration Damper

The upper guide is $244 but I see that I should replace this item before a problem.
RealOEM.com BMW E28 M5 Timing and valve train-timing chain

Would you suggest a break in oil if I am replacing rod bearings, main bearings, and rings? What type?
I have BMW 15w40 mineral or Brad Penn 20w50 grade 1 mineral.

How is #231? What oil change interval and brand are you using?

Thank you!!

__________________
Purchased May 2010 with 78,000
1/26/2013 154,501
~20K with RK SC

raymondw

Hi Tyson,

Answers below.

Unlike the M88, the S38 uses a duplex timing chain. Sprocket #9 is for the M88/3; sprocket #8 for the S38B35.

The prices of realoem cannot be correct. I have to check my the records of #231, but position #22 is more or less about US$100. Position #25 was more or less US$300 when I bought it; but this part hardly takes a hit and can often be reused.

For the bearings alone, break in oil is not required. But with the rings, I assume the cylinder walls will be slighly honed. In that case, you have to bed in the cylinder walls again and break-in oil is advisable.

I used mineral 15W40 compliant to API SF/CC or SF/CD for the first 500km and subsequentelly the second 500km. In reality, the exchange interval was extended for practical reasons. I am now using Castrol TWS 10W60 which is compliant to API SF/CJ.

Drop me an Email at raymond (dot) woertman (at) gmail (dot) com. I will then send you a pdf document with that info. My experience on this website are just my notes, but the pdf document is actual proof for the required renewal of the insurance appraisal in Q1/2011, hence why it is confidential.

__________________
Raymond

==> MY90 E34 M5 3.6 <==
==> MY85 E28 M5 M88/3 <==

The E34 M5 Alps tour. Sixth edition: 14-17 September 2007

Tyson1868

Sounds good. I am interested why this is needed for insurance. Any more you tube links to your car?

Now it looks like I will need the oil pump chain and sprocket. I have not seen this as the work was done Friday and I was off. I believe the chain and sprocket are special order #2 and #3. I thought when I purcased the oil pump I would get all I needed for this system. Is this common for this part to fail?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=11&fg=30

raymondw

I needed a new oil-pump as well. I haven't researched this fully as I relied on the findings of my engine rebuilder; the pressure valve didn't work. Apparentely, this part is needed to limit the oil pressure when the engine speed rises. This part generally fails on M88/S38 engines.

A general rule of thumb is that when the pump has never been replaced before is to replace it. Generally, owners don't want to as it is a costly part, let alone the labour involved. But when you have the sump of the car, it is wise to replace it as well although it is impossible to replace the oil-pump chain withput removing the timing chain, but IMHO, the oil pump chain isn't stressed that high and can live an engines life.

davidoli

The oil pump and chain were renewed on Diamond Diana as soon as the first opportunity presented itself !

D

__________________
Better a day as a tiger than a lifetime as a sheep !

91 Sebring 3.6 | E28 UK RHD M5 | E34 UK RHD 3.8 | E34 M5 Touring | E24 M635CSi UK RHD

www.classicmdautos.co.uk

Tyson1868

Thanks gentleman, I am sill confused by the diagram I posted if I have to order the sprocket separately or if it comes with the pump


The chain and oil pump ships Monday but the sprocket takes five days while my car ties up a lift. The sprocket that goes on the crank is a special order as well, What about oil pump brands BMW or Febi? Febi is cheaper. Does the oil pressure switch come with the oil pump????

Curtis

raymondw

Curtis,

1: Oil pump does not contain the sprocket
2: Replace the woodruff key and the hub as well.
3: Use OE BMW for the pump, you do not want to take risks for this part.
4: Oil pump contains pressure valve.

I do not know what you mean with the pressure switch?

Tyson1868

I meant valve sorry

I will do all of the above, any ideas where I can source bothe sprockets (oil pump and crank) for quick delivery? The hub was replaced 15-20K ago by the previous owner but I will probably replace.




Any idea where the fuel is coming from on my E39?

105K 3800 miles on oil, TWS

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raymondw

If it is the OE hub, then replace it with a new one. The reason is that it is made of a relative soft material that distorts when torqued causing hub failures at high engine loads. If you already have the Frank Fahey hub, there is no need to replace it.

The oil leaks through the cylinder walls during the compression phase (the cycle before the ignition). There are a number of causes that might relate to the usage and aging of parts.

Scenario 1: When an engine is cold, the injected fuel condensates against the cylinder walls. This fuel is not available for combustion. To compensate for this, the engine management enriches the mixture and gradiently reduces the enrichment until the operating temperature is reached. This is a normal scenario for every engine unless you use the the cold start heater that often is an option. In winter conditions, an engine needs more and longer cold start enrichment then in summer, but this depends on the climate you live in.

Scenario 2: Bad fuel injectors that leak or have an improper spray pattern or do not meet their specifications on dynamic and static fuel results. This is caused by aging and usage, but generally this is a problem for many cars after 10+ years. S38's and M88's are known to fail on bad injectors.

In any case, the fuel that hits the cylinder walls is too thin to be kept in the combustion chamber by the compression and oil scraping rings. This results in a 'leak' and causes the breakdown of the oil; this is mostly an issue at the oil-scraping spring were there only is a tiny amount of oil available in the honing pattern of the cylinder walls. This will result in an increased engine wear.

raymondw

Normally, insurance companies do value cars based on teh grey book value that does not concider the actual market values for classic cars and young timers. Therefore, normal value for any older car is no more then the scrap-metal price. In fact, classic cars and young timers have an increased market value based on rarity, demand and history. In Germany, Classic Data has a rating system for classic cars and young timers based on condition; the grey-book that applies for our cars so to speak.

However, insurance companies do not accept such values without an actual appraisal of the affected car. This appraisal in my country is valid for three years after which it needs a renewal. Based on that 'objective' independant appraisal, the insurance companies in Holland are obliged to use the appraisal value and not the grey-book market value. Given the money we invest in our cars, this is an important insurance when the inthinkable occurs.

Classic data rates an DC91 E28 M5 in mint condition for more then 30k Euro's; in fact it is difficult to find good DC91's for this money already. I at least want an appraisal outcome that matches the Classic data rating system (>30k Euro)