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Old 8th July 2006, 03:01   #61
m_five
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeVeTaS
Why is the portrr cable safe and the machines not safe.

Whats the differance?

Does the porter just work at lower speeds or something?
The rotary buffer just spins on its axis, and if you're not careful and skilled, you'll end up burning your paint. Imagine putting a buffing pad on your power drill.

The random orbital spins in a random pattern. Though not exact, think of a drill that not only spins, but also moves its axis in a random pattern.
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Old 8th July 2006, 03:58   #62
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M five...you are prob an old timer like me....times have changed....a novice can use this buffer nowadayz.

Because the puffing pads are Foam and not wool, you can't burn the paint. I will make a video to show you a buffer using a foam pad for 20 seconds in 1 spot using "3M RUBBING COMPOUND"....and you will see nothing but smooth. you Will NOT get more scratching in this system as it does NOT use gritt to "cut" the paint like in the past.

I will be honest,,the picture of the BEFORE AND AFTER I used the 3M Rubbing Compound with NO WAX on it....I did NOT USE the Swirl Remover or Final glaze after. That shows you that it doesn't make more marks! I did that because I was lazy and it's my brothers car and he was giving me crap about leaving to pick up his girl friend.

I would have said the same thing 1 year ago until I learned about this 3M line. There is NO RISK, if my brother can do it, ANYONE CAN! Foam pads absorb heat, after 20 seconds, you can put the side of your face on the paint.

Answer to some questions.....

You would have to buff your car 30 times using "rubbing compound" before you would have to worry about anything

Or

50 times using the 3M swirl remover. Rubbing Compound is more agressive than the swirl remover.

You would have to break down the "ORANGE PEEL" before you would start to lose your coats! I have done my fathers car 1 car for 10 years, did it every 6 months. thats 20 times on an old 300zx with swirl remover.

Anyone can do this with a high speed buffer and NOT WORRY! Try it on the back quarter pannel or the wifes/kids car on a spot if your nervous, then you will see, there's nothing to be nervous about.

It does not REMOVE like in the old days...it sort of blends/smooths out scratches, hard to explain....thats why they have PHD's working at 3M...

If people would find out how easy and safe this is, body shops would not be happy!

The first 2 cars I did I was nervous about using the Rubbing Compound if fear that it was too agressive and now...I possitive that it is Safe!..let alone using the Swirl Remover....that I would use on my "first childs" butt! it's THAT SAFE!


RUBBING COMPOUND http://repaintsupply.com/pd_perfectit_iii.cfm
SWIRL REMOVER...............http://repaintsupply.com/pd_perfectit_3000_swirl.cfm
FINISHING GLAZE SITE>.....http://repaintsupply.com/pd_perfectit_iii_finishing.cfm
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Old 8th July 2006, 04:23   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Realtycar
M five...you are prob an old timer like me....times have changed....a novice can use this buffer nowadayz.

Because the puffing pads are Foam and not wool, you can't burn the paint. I will make a video to show you a buffer using a foam pad for 20 seconds in 1 spot using "3M RUBBING COMPOUND"....and you will see nothing but smooth. you Will NOT get more scratching in this system as it does NOT use gritt to "cut" the paint like in the past.

I would have said the same thing 1 year ago until I learned about this 3M line. There is NO RISK, if my brother can do it, ANYONE CAN! Foam pads absorb heat, after 20 seconds, you can put the side of your face on the paint.

Answer to some questions.....

You would have to buff your car 20 times using "rubbing compound" before you would have to worry about getting anothe layer put on.

Or

40 times using the 3M swirl remover. Rubbing Compound is more agressive than the swirl remover.

Anyone can do this with a high speed buffer and NOT WORRY! Try it on the back quarter pannel or the wifes/kids car on a spot if your nervous, then you will see, there's nothing to be nervous about.

It does not REMOVE like in the old days...it sort of blends/smooths out scratches, hard to explain....thats why they have PHD's working at 3M...

If people would find out how easy and safe this is, body shops would not be happy!

SWIRL REMOVER...............http://repaintsupply.com/pd_perfectit_3000_swirl.cfm
FINISHING GLAZE SITE>.....http://repaintsupply.com/pd_perfectit_iii_finishing.cfm
Well...I suppose I am an old timer. I certainly understand the technology of pads and polishing products has changed, but I'd still caution the novice about using a rotary buffer. Just my opinion.

In one of your posts, you even talk about the speed and heat of the rotary buffer.

Your problem is that you used a "random orbital" buffer...like I SAID!!! that is only good for putting on wax! That Porter Cable crap is for the man of the home to save time putting on wax. The HIGH SPEED professional buffer cuts way faster.....for 89 bucks more than Porter Cable, you could have saved 4 hours! get a man's buffer....you will use it for the rest of your life! Well worth the money..it's all about the RPM and heat! The Swirl remover has NO GRIT...it cuts by heat...and you can't get it hot enough with out 1400 rpms....the 3M guys will tell you that.
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Old 8th July 2006, 06:06   #64
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warm enough to melt butter over 2 min but not enought to burn the paint. That's about it....I will make a video this week for everyone and show the pad on the same spot for 15 seconds...or so...it is truly amazing. The old school of doing it with the "wool" pads, you wouldn's even stop in 1 spot for 2 seconds...let alone "sit and spin" in one spot for 15.
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Old 11th July 2006, 17:27   #65
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I will start a new post with a video...I am going to try to keep the camera on the surface so you see the magic happen as it "gets" polished. Also I WILL do the on paint for 15 seconds @1400 rpm to prove using Foam Pads and 3M is safe for all to do. You won't burn the paint!
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Old 11th July 2006, 19:11   #66
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I am looking forward to learning a new technique!
__________________
All the best,
Jerry
00 Z8 Jet Black/Red Sport / some others
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Old 11th July 2006, 19:17   #67
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Thanks for posting a source where we can buy the 3M products. I got anxious before you posted and bought directly from 3M. Although, I think the products are slightly different. I was planning on hand application with a soft white cloth? Am I crazy, should I go and buy the DeWalt Buffer? what do you think?
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Old 11th July 2006, 19:41   #68
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Realitycar, any good suggestions on removing tree sap? Somehow
I got a huge splat on my hood. Must have been just driving under
a tree as I always park in a garage. I tried removing it with clay
but it ended up creating a nasty blemish in my Sapphire Black!
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Old 11th July 2006, 22:31   #69
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Ya didn't ask me, but...

3M has a good product called Adhesive remover (or somethin like that) - any autobody shop will have it for removing the goop from stickon letters.

A microfiber towel and some of that thin liquid should do it. DO NOTE, you'll strip your car down to the paint so it'll need wax or something in that area.

WL


PS - I think its this stuff... http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pr...?product=39800 or maybe this is the new stuff? http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
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Old 11th July 2006, 22:43   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Marshall
Realitycar, any good suggestions on removing tree sap? Somehow
I got a huge splat on my hood. Must have been just driving under
a tree as I always park in a garage. I tried removing it with clay
but it ended up creating a nasty blemish in my Sapphire Black!
I'm not RealityCar but I use ethanol (almost 100% alcohol) on a piece of soft cloth to remove the tree resin.
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