what's the best way to clean engine bay ?

[Blue Angel]

Originally Posted by whatheheck

I have a post on this already. Try scrubbing bubbles. It is $2.99 a can.

The best engine cleaner!

Cover your HID ballasts and bulbs. Cover any exposed connectors with Saran wrap.

Spray on Scrubbing bubbles everywhere in the engine. Scrub with a toothbrush heavily greased areas. Let it soak for 2 minutes, then hose off with water.

Start the engine, let it warm up for 5 minutes, then let me know what you think.

I do mine 4 times a year. See picture attached after scrubbing bubbles treatment.

I am very impressed!

[MarkQC]

Originally Posted by s62fan

Pure water by itself is not a conductor of electricity. All the chemicals and impurities that are held in suspension are what conduct electricity. All you swimming pool owners already know this. I would not worry about shorting out any connections, unless they stay wet long enough to corrode. That would take a few weeks to occur.

..are yo kidding?

...OK, lets test that theory - fill the tub with distilled water, then jump in with the plugged in hairdryer

[whatheheck]

Thanks for the updates on this thread.

1) My input on covering electrical connectors before you hose down your engine is only a RECOMMENDATION. A safety precaution to avoid possible issues later. Your car, so do what you think is best for you.

2) I've read some old threads here on on problems with performance issues, they determined later on wet connections on CPS / Cam position later. Possibly coincidence.

3) I suggested covering the ECU housing (underneath the passenger side aircon filter) because I have the IATS relocation kit.
I had to punch a hole through the ECU housing to route the wires.
The hole I punched though are covered with sealant but I still prefer to play it safe and I cover this area when I hose down my engine.

I am an aerospace engineer for Boeing. We are anal on moisture on electrical connections. We have strict requirements on this. Our systems needs to run reliably.

We install our connectors sideways to avoid moisture from going inside the electrical contacts. Connectors mounted vertical we put a "drip shield" on top so that moisture or water will run off to the side.

Our connectors are already moisture proof to begin with, but we still go out of our way to avoid any possible electrical malfunctions.

We put "drip loops" on our wiring to drain possible moisture on cabling away from connectors. All in the interest of protecting the flying public.

On an airplane, we cant pull along side the road and open the hood to check what's wrong.

If the airplane is on the ground, it is not making money for the airlines.

ANYWAY, no need for addtional comments on this. So many already.

Again, what I stated was all RECOMMENDATION. Do what you think is best for you.

I will post picture soon of areas I RECOMMEND you wrap with plastic to avoid POSSIBLE electrical issues later.

[MarkQC]

Oh nooo, Boeing, now I'm worried....

JUST KIDDING...

UH, I've been/am around B models, what you working now?

[whatheheck]

Myself, I work on 777 models. We install In Flight Entertainment Systems.

What is Boeing working on now? - lots of other things, like 787 model which is currently struggling on making its schedules. But these schedule issues are common problems on brand new models. We are working very very hard to make our schedule commitments. We are proud of our airplanes.

Note to everybody, this is important as sometimes it is misunderstood and I hear this often blaming Boeing, so please note:

1) The seat pitch (distance from your seat to the seat in front of you is set by the airlines. Boeing has nothing to do with this. We can make them as tight as sardines inside a can, or make the seat in front of you as far away as possible so you get the most leg room.

2) In flight entertainment systems = this is selected by the airlines. We can put a basic audio only system for them, or the most expensive and most elaborate like 24" LCD monitors on every seat, video on demand, audio on demand, shopping, etc. Similar to buying a car, these are Options selected by the airlines. (Stereo or no Stereo System. Basic system or advanced.)

3) Boeing dont make the passenger seats. The seat suppliers are selected by the airlines. So if the seat is not comfy, please dont blame Boeing. The seat supplier and seat models and seat comfort are set by the airlines.

Originally Posted by MarkQC

Oh nooo, Boeing, now I'm worried....

JUST KIDDING...

UH, I've been/am around B models, what you working now?

[MarkQC]

...no worries, we all know what the air carriers do to aircraft... ...so I don't blame them for all that, I'm not on the commercial side -I have a different list -ha

[whatheheck]

Here you go, see attached photo. All the arrows and circles I drew in yellow is what I usually cover before hosing down my engine with water.

On the passenger side under the air conditioning filter is the engine control unit and all kinds of connections. ECU is fairly sealed so you should be ok as long as you dont shoot a stream of water on this area. Dont use Pressure Washer!

Be particularly careful on this area as any moisture that gets inside the ECU will be big trouble.

The other arrows are exposed connectors. Just wrap these in plastic bag or something. Again, to prevent possible issues later.

The front, behind the headlights are the ballasts, HID bulbs, Angle Eye LED / LED driver, electrical connections. I suggest you protect these areas with plastic bag too. Believe me, I learned the hard way. One of my ballast got wet and quit working. One of my HID bulbs got wet and burned out.

This is not a complete list but this is all I protect when I clean my engine.

Summary: Once you have applied plastic bags to the areas I showed in yellow - then apply scrubbing bubbles all over the engine. Make sure the engine is cold or warm but not hot.

Let scrubbing bubbles do its wonders for about 5 minutes, then hose it off with water until all the scrubbing bubbles stuff is gone.

Remove all the plastic bags you temporarily applied.

Start the engine and let the engine warm up. Leave the hood open for the water to evaporate.

Once the engine is warm, take a look at your engine and let me know what you think.

For $2.99, this process is so simple and so easy to do that there is no longer an excuse for a dirty engine. I do mine 4 times a year.

Hope that helps.

Again, this is only recommendations. Do you what you want to do to your own car.

Originally Posted by Justin13

After coming across this thread while doing a search on engine cleaning I thought I would give the "scrubbing bubbles" a try. I would like to know where the alternator an ECU are. Perhaps Dan could just load that photo of his engine in Microsoft Paint and draw circles around the areas to be particularly careful with and then post it online.

[Justin13]

Originally Posted by whatheheck

Here you go, see attached photo. All the arrows and circles I drew in yellow is what I usually cover before hosing down my engine with water.

On the passenger side under the air conditioning filter is the engine control unit and all kinds of connections. ECU is fairly sealed so you should be ok as long as you dont shoot a stream of water on this area. Dont use Pressure Washer!

Be particularly careful on this area as any moisture that gets inside the ECU will be big trouble.

The other arrows are exposed connectors. Just wrap these in plastic bag or something. Again, to prevent possible issues later.

The front, behind the headlights are the ballasts, HID bulbs, Angle Eye LED / LED driver, electrical connections. I suggest you protect these areas with plastic bag too. Believe me, I learned the hard way. One of my ballast got wet and quit working. One of my HID bulbs got wet and burned out.

This is not a complete list but this is all I protect when I clean my engine.

Summary: Once you have applied plastic bags to the areas I showed in yellow - then apply scrubbing bubbles all over the engine. Make sure the engine is cold or warm but not hot.

Let scrubbing bubbles do its wonders for about 5 minutes, then hose it off with water until all the scrubbing bubbles stuff is gone.

Remove all the plastic bags you temporarily applied.

Start the engine and let the engine warm up. Leave the hood open for the water to evaporate.

Once the engine is warm, take a look at your engine and let me know what you think.

For $2.99, this process is so simple and so easy to do that there is no longer an excuse for a dirty engine. I do mine 4 times a year.

Hope that helps.

Again, this is only recommendations. Do you what you want to do to your own car.

I followed WTH's advice and covered all connections with Saran wrap, used the "Scrubbing Bubbles" and then finished up with some Adam's In and Out Spray. Total Cost was $13 vs. the $50-75 most detailers charge. I highly doubt that they could make my engine look any better.

Thanks Again for the great advice!

[whatheheck]

Holy crap, that is one freaking clean engine!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for posting updates and sharing a photo of your very clean engine.

I'm glad the engine cleaning technique worked for you too.

Your mechanic would love you. I mean who doesnt enjoy working or even just looking at clean engines?

Originally Posted by Justin13

I followed WTH's advice and covered all connections with Saran wrap, used the "Scrubbing Bubbles" and then finished up with some Adam's In and Out Spray. Total Cost was $13 vs. the $50-75 most detailers charge. I highly doubt that they could make my engine look any better.

Thanks Again for the great advice!

[J Irwan]

Originally Posted by Justin13

I followed WTH's advice and covered all connections with Saran wrap, used the "Scrubbing Bubbles" and then finished up with some Adam's In and Out Spray. Total Cost was $13 vs. the $50-75 most detailers charge. I highly doubt that they could make my engine look any better.

Thanks Again for the great advice!

Great job..looking clean and shiny...

Is the engine bay still damp when the pic was taken, or did you apply some dressing to make them all black and shiny ?

Regardz,

J Irwan