+1 They also have a pad for the orbital that has a recess for the clay bar that works pretty well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2strokecoldsmoke
I recently bought the buffer kit from Girot's Garage ($200) which comes with a very high-quality orbital buffer, polish and wax. Excellent results!
I highly recommend it.
Lots of other really cool stuff in the Girot's catalog, too.
Its because NXT is full of fillers. In order to properly remove swirls, you will need at least a random orbit machine and polishes that actually cut. Proper car care is a multi-step process.
Bingo. I was waiting for this answer.
There is simply no way around it- once the surface of the clearcoat has microscratches you will need to POLISH them out before using a topcoat wax or polymer.
The ugly truth is that many of the low end details will just slap down a filler laden wax and you'll think "Ohh, Ahhh- great detail for my $100, $200, whatever." Then, a few washes later, it is swirl city. Your 'detailer' will say "you used a rough towel" but the truth is they were never removed.
It is multistep process, and each step is designed to accomplish something- wash then wax, and leave out all the middle parts and it is not going to work in the long run.
There are a few pretty good threads here- Atomic80 had one, I did one ... Laidback and SoCalJD also have a few threads on detailing.
One comment on wax versus zaino- I really don't have much of an opinion! Zaino is pretty easy and works well for me, it seems to last longer than the waxes. The key, IMHO, is achieving an optically perfect surface BEFORE you put on wax, Zaino, NXT, etc, etc
Finally, I am exploring using ultrafiltered (RO) water in a sprayer to wash off the last rinse and avoid spotting and toweling... so far encouraging.
A
PS Griots is ultrahigh priced for what you get- a mixture of decent items and mediocre products with nauseating text to help sell it. I would NEVER use a clay bar in anything other than my hand.
I too have used Meguiars NXT. Great stuff. Easy on, easy off, Shiny! But it doesnt last very long.
Zaino! And try 4 coats for deep shine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mottati
nxt is nice and easy to use, but it doesn't last long.
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Yes, absolutely, the key to a deep and lasting shine is to do a proper detail job.
Clay bar the entire car.
Polish the paint using orbital polisher (Porter cable or Griots Garage). There are a few very good paint polish out there. 3M swirl remover is great. I like Griots paint polish too. I've tried Meguiars polish and they are good too.
Then apply about 4 coats of Zaino. Very shiny and long lasting.
Wow
You guys are good. Any tricks to clay barring the car. Will any clay work?
>>>
They're all pretty much the same. Make's all the difference in the world though. Even on *brand new cars*. I detailed a friends CLS the week he bought it. It *looked* showroom perfect, but I turned a blue clay bar black on the thing.
As Ard said (I think), prep work is the key. I'm a Zainos freak, and it requires some effort *the first time*, but any decent wax(P21S)/polish (Klasse) will require the same. However, once it's done, subsequent efforts will be *much* easier. I got caught out in a light rain last night, so my car's a little dirty. I've got so many coats of Zainos on it though that 10min with a damp towel will have it looking perfect again.
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I can also recommend clay as a great first step. I use Clay Magic, which I think is still available at Wal Mart. Its a decent size bar (1/2 a bar should do one car) and doesn't fall apart (unlike the Mother's bar). Just be sure to keep the surface completely lubed with the spray they give you. If you run out, not to worry, you can use QD or even a combo of dawn and water. The idea is to allow the clay bar glide across the surface, not drag.
Any marring you get with the clay bar can be removed when polishing anyway, so I don't sweat it when I see those faint "sanding' marks. You clay bar users know what I'm talking about.
I can also recommend clay as a great first step. I use Clay Magic, which I think is still available at Wal Mart. Its a decent size bar (1/2 a bar should do one car) and doesn't fall apart (unlike the Mother's bar). Just be sure to keep the surface completely lubed with the spray they give you. If you run out, not to worry, you can use QD or even a combo of dawn and water. The idea is to allow the clay bar glide across the surface, not drag.
Any marring you get with the clay bar can be removed when polishing anyway, so I don't sweat it when I see those faint "sanding' marks. You clay bar users know what I'm talking about.
>>>
I just use water. Dawn will take off any wax or polish you've got on the car. This is fine if you're starting from scratch, but after putting *several* coats of Zainos on I just use water.
I recently got a *big* clay bar from a body shop. I'd stop by a local shop and see if they'd sell you some.
I would use Zaino's clay bar as it's not as abrasive than others..the key is to make sure that you keep the area and the clay bar wet/ lubricated so as not to scratch/ damage the paint...always check your clay for even the slightest contaminant it has some contaminants fold it and keep the clay bar clean at all times...inspect your work and make sure your paint is free from dirt/ contaminants before proceeding...sometimes you have to go back and clay the some parts but a clean area is what your aiming for before proceeding ( sometimes it takes me atleast 3 hrs just to clay the car)...as Ard and JD have said a good prep work is the key, take your time don't rush and don't forget to hydrate your self and do take breaks...g/l and post some pics...
Quote:
Originally Posted by djtroy
Wow
You guys are good. Any tricks to clay barring the car. Will any clay work?
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Marring is mostly cause by a dirty clay bar, lack of lubrication and applying too much pressure...knead your clay bar as often as possible to get a clean and fresh clay all the time...one other tip is always find a place/ spot when detailing free from dust...I normally wet the whole garage floor and close it when detailing...
Quote:
Originally Posted by COMA
Any marring you get with the clay bar can be removed when polishing anyway, so I don't sweat it when I see those faint "sanding' marks. You clay bar users know what I'm talking about.
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