PPI results, Rear wheels frozen, Some guidance please

[ase2dais]

Well Friends the excitement and anticipation is done. I got the 02 Dark Blue/Blk-Red Interior for $35.5k +TTL. Got me an 4yr/70kmiles Ext-Warranty for $2300.00. Im done, fork me! toasted! whatever faith gives me for getting a used car, Im ready!

Well, this are the major things PPI found for $166

1. clutch slipping at third, but I think Im going t need this soon, dealer wants $1800, for I smell something burnt everytime I drive it, plus my daugthers BF, hosed it, when we forgot to take the handbrake off while having fun it it! Im so stupid! letting myself believe he is a good driver,m since he drives a Mustang-Manual! aghhhhhh~!

a. This that about the going rate?

b. Is there any thing special about these clutches that cant be done be a regular mechanic using OEM parts?
(Im thinking of just having my own pvt trusted mechanic fixe it, for may half that price)

2. Right Front/lower corner shroud broken, Can I do this myself?

3. In trying to save money, I tried to rotate the tires that are installed incorrectly myself, the direction thread are facing the wrong way

a. Having remove the lugs, these rear wheels are stuck!~ frozen, Is there any reason these staggered wheels are so tight on the axle~! Help!

4. I put the lugs back on, and lowered the wheels, AFTER WHICH I HEARD SOME SWIZZLING SOUND FROM THE CAR UNDERSIDE, Im thinking it just the shocks, getting compressed back in. Am I correct?

[ard]

So, what happened with all the prior sales? Did the original owner fill you in? I was certain we would hear tales of woe- sounds like it was pretty clean, just right place right time....

Read up on clutches. Plenty of choices, and OEM is low on many lists. It is not difficult to replace the clutch, but evaluating the flywheel and setting a few tolerances REQUIRE some knowledge/skill.


Here is a BIG concern of mine: HOW COULD THE REAR WHEELS BE FROZEN IF THEY WERE JUST REMOVED FOR THE BRAKE INSPECTION???

Did they even pull engine codes?!?

The wheels are 'hubcentric' and if the hubs are corroded they will stick. Take a rubber mallet and whack the tire- should pop loose.

Does that 70k warranty add 70k MORE or is it 70k total?

A

[ase2dais]

I knew I had a clutch work b4 i bought it, thats why its so low.

70+k warranty under my understanding is over the 49k that I have now!

I have a trusted mechanic who loves cars, has 2 gas stations, and personally fixed my MBenz B4.

Should I just, wait until 30days and claim it under my extended warranty then.

Clutch work! Is the flywheel measurement done by only BMW technicians wuth great expertised?

I may just take it to the station to have it rotated, since its quite a hazzle to do it myself. agree?

I tque the wheels lugs to a preset measure on the wrench that comes with a BMW jacking kit (e90), 130nm, good or is M5 different?

I asked them about the wheel though, and they said they didnt remove bur rotated them and visually inspect them on, they did say the rear brakes due to be replace at 10k miles, cost $800, rotors,sensors, pads, agree?

[trackstar]

****, where do I start? It sounds like you have limited mechanical knowledge so I will try to be gentle...I'm no expert either...leaving the ebrake on has nothing to do with the clutch. Unless he rode the clutch as a result of the ebrake making the car difficult to start off. A clutch job is a clutch job no matter the car, anyone can do it, as long as they can check the flywheel (no big deal, you just need to check the runout or whatever, it's one small tool needed and any real mechanic should have it).

Wheels get "stuck" sometimes because of high lug nut torque. Take the bolts out, sit down, and kick the top of the wheel/tire, that should pop it off. It may take a few attempts. But, if the wheels are staggered (which they are) and the tires are directional (which they are) then you can't rotate tires. Unless you have them dismounted and remounted and balanced on the opposite wheel. Period.

[Beamer_usa]

Originally Posted by ard

Here is a BIG concern of mine: HOW COULD THE REAR WHEELS BE FROZEN IF THEY WERE JUST REMOVED FOR THE BRAKE INSPECTION???

A

Yet another $tealer CPO inspection schame! I don't mean to be so negative, but previous $tealership experiences warrant this!

[Need4Spd]

But, if the wheels are staggered (which they are) and the tires are directional (which they are) then you can't rotate tires. Unless you have them dismounted and remounted and balanced on the opposite wheel.

If the only problem is that they're rotating the wrong direction, you can swap them left to right to correct this. You can't move them front to back, however (but you can run rear wheels on front if you have a 3mm spacer). If the wheels are frozen to the hub and won't come off by whacking them, you can put the lug bolts back on loosely and rock the car back and forth, or gently run it back and forth over the "V" in your driveway where the driveway meets the street. The wheels can get stuck because of the electrolytic reaction between the aluminum wheels and iron rotor hubs. To avoid this in the future, lightly apply some antiseize to the hub face (not on the rotor surface, of course). But if the car was supposed to have been inspected, I would take it back and complain. In order to check the brakes, they should have removed the wheels. So they shouldn't be stuck.

[ard]

Originally Posted by ase2dais

I knew I had a clutch work b4 i bought it, thats why its so low.

70+k warranty under my understanding is over the 49k that I have now!

I have a trusted mechanic who loves cars, has 2 gas stations, and personally fixed my MBenz B4.

Should I just, wait until 30days and claim it under my extended warranty then.

Clutch work! Is the flywheel measurement done by only BMW technicians wuth great expertised?

I may just take it to the station to have it rotated, since its quite a hazzle to do it myself. agree?

I tque the wheels lugs to a preset measure on the wrench that comes with a BMW jacking kit (e90), 130nm, good or is M5 different?

I asked them about the wheel though, and they said they didnt remove bur rotated them and visually inspect them on, they did say the rear brakes due to be replace at 10k miles, cost $800, rotors,sensors, pads, agree?

If the rear wheels are rotating in the wrong direction (ie the tread is 'backwards') you CAN swap them.

I can rotate wheels faster than driving to a station... plus I check pads, calipers, etc with the wheel off.

I wouldn't pay $800 for a brake job- but then again that's me. I wouldn't settle for a "10,000 mile" estimate of remaining pad. I demand millimeter measurement of all 8 pads. (Dealer really doesn't like this, but this is the right way.)


Have you read the extended warranty???? Assuming you et 70k MORE miles is dangerous... what happens if it is 4 years total and 70k total?! DO NOT TRUST WHAT THEY *SAY*... read it! Hmmm.

Clutches are often NOT covered. They are either (a) specifically excluded, or (b) considered a wear item, or (c) attributed to driver abuse.

A lot more research for you here.... search is your friend!

A

[ase2dais]

Originally Posted by trackstar

****, where do I start? It sounds like you have limited mechanical knowledge so I will try to be gentle...I'm no expert either...leaving the ebrake on has nothing to do with the clutch. Unless he rode the clutch as a result of the ebrake making the car difficult to start off. A clutch job is a clutch job no matter the car, anyone can do it, as long as they can check the flywheel (no big deal, you just need to check the runout or whatever, it's one small tool needed and any real mechanic should have it).

Wheels get "stuck" sometimes because of high lug nut torque. Take the bolts out, sit down, and kick the top of the wheel/tire, that should pop it off. It may take a few attempts. But, if the wheels are staggered (which they are) and the tires are directional (which they are) then you can't rotate tires. Unless you have them dismounted and remounted and balanced on the opposite wheel. Period.

thks again for Im trying to get the best bang! for the remaining dollars left. I understand Dealership is the best way to go! but I have seen people get ripped of my dealership and their lousy maintenance too

Maybe my trusted private mechanic is the best guy then, for he has proven himself over and over again to me, plus his booming gas station shows that he does his job well, I even since Porches in there at times.

[ase2dais]

Originally Posted by Beamer_usa

Yet another $tealer CPO inspection schame! I don't mean to be so negative, but previous $tealership experiences warrant this!

I know wat you mean, but wat can we do? **** if you do and **** if you dont!

[mottati]

Originally Posted by Beamer_usa

Yet another $tealer CPO inspection schame! I don't mean to be so negative, but previous $tealership experiences warrant this!

i do not think this was a cpo car, it was bought from a used car lot. Many mechanics will "inspect" the brake pads using a mirror and flash light, like your dentist would use. It's possible!
Mike

[ard]

Originally Posted by mottati

i do not think this was a cpo car, it was bought from a used car lot. Many mechanics will "inspect" the brake pads using a mirror and flash light, like your dentist would use. It's possible!
Mike

He had a PPI from a BMW dealer. Paid $166 I think.

BMW brake inspection calls for pad removal and inspection of the pad surface... that's a laugh, huh? BMW dealers don't even remove the wheels for inspections.

A

[Beamer_usa]

Originally Posted by ard

He had a PPI from a BMW dealer. Paid $166 I think.

BMW brake inspection calls for pad removal and inspection of the pad surface... that's a laugh, huh? BMW dealers don't even remove the wheels for inspections.

A