Alpina b10 bt #260 eml/throttle problem - Page 5

Henska · 22nd September 2011, 20:28

Cos i don't know the type of the resistor which is destroyed....that's why i asked earlier in the post the colour of stripes in resistor or ohm value...do you have info about this, Tomba?

Tomba · 22nd September 2011, 20:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

Cos i don't know the type of the resistor which is destroyed....that's why i asked earlier in the post the colour of stripes in resistor or ohm value...do you have info about this, Tomba?

No, but I am sure another BT owner can have a look for you.

Henska · 30th September 2011, 10:25

Hello!

A new problem has arrived.

Car starts to twtch and powers loss when driving steady throthle... Easier when engine is hot.
Problem occurs in several speed and rpm's not every time in same situation.

But only when steady throttle...when pushin pedal accelerates very fine. Idle is fine also.

I measured lambda when driving and mixture shows very lean in steady throttle..
0,08. When accelerating it raises and correct mixture inabout 0,8,,,,and when dropped to the idle, corrects mixture about 0,2-0,5......

So steady throttle it goes lean.....

-Does my throttle valve brush mod, do this?.how much is your ohms when measuring 6-7&7-8 pins without plug from throttle body?
-Fuel pressure or regulator? Hose has been broken i dont know how long.....but now fixed...
-Ignition? Some candles goes off and nonburning oxygen shows lean in lambda..Pops in exhaust.

Airleak?

Regards

Henkka

Chas C · 30th September 2011, 19:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

Car starts to twitch and powers loss when driving steady throttle.

I've also experienced this and it's discussed a little on the (long) thread about the BT 'coughing'.

Sometimes it's just a blip - a momentary loss of power - and it's most noticable when cruising on a steady throttle. Ocassionally it's more of a 'jerk' and I've even seen it cause the cruise control to disengage.

Tomba · 30th September 2011, 23:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

Hello!

I measured lambda when driving and mixture shows very lean in steady throttle..
0,08. When accelerating it raises and correct mixture inabout 0,8,,,,and when dropped to the idle, corrects mixture about 0,2-0,5......

So steady throttle it goes lean.....

Does it sweep from low (0,1-0,2 to 0,7-0,8) to high during idle and part load when the problem doesn't occure?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

-Does my throttle valve brush mod, do this?.how much is your ohms when measuring 6-7&7-8 pins without plug from throttle body?

Fuel injection main load is the MAF. If your thottle body does wierd things the MAF will measure it and the ECU will adjust injection timing to it. Very unlikely that this could be it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

-Fuel pressure or regulator? Hose has been broken i dont know how long.....but now fixed...

Could be. Lean mixture could be more air (than measured by MAF) or to less fuel. I was thinking of a clogged fuel filter that suddenly comes up... But its hard to decide from a distance. I would like to see the Lambda-integrator [%] value from the ecu when the problem occurs. Than you can see if th ECU is adding fuel or not. And... compare injection timing [ms] when the problem occurs and not.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

-Ignition? Some candles goes off and nonburning oxygen shows lean in lambda..Pops in exhaust.

Could be it to... Do you know the service history of the car? Changing the spark plugs, filters and fluids isn't a bad idea when you don't know it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

Airleak?

Yes, can be it to

. The MAF measured a to low mass flow and the ECU wil adjust injection timing to that. But... most times an airleak is always there and not suddenly there.

One last thing that you might check. Since the problem doesn't occure always and you had some cracked or lose (vacuum) hoses. There is a regulation called active canister control. It is meant to supply fuel damps into the engine instead of atmosphere. A valve is placed between a hose from the canister to the inlet manifold. If that hose is not attached to the canister but freely in the open air it causes an air leak when the valve is activated. The hose goes (If I Remeber Correctly, IIRC) from left/front side of the car to the middle of the inlet manifold.

Ciao

Henska · 2nd October 2011, 14:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomba

Does it sweep from low (0,1-0,2 to 0,7-0,8) to high during idle and part load when the problem doesn't occure?

A: yes, but when dropped to idle or pushing throttle it sweeps wider range first but then relaxes and sweeps only like 0,7/0,8.

Fuel injection main load is the MAF. If your thottle body does wierd things the MAF will measure it and the ECU will adjust injection timing to it. Very unlikely that this could be it.

A:Okey.

Could be. Lean mixture could be more air (than measured by MAF) or to less fuel. I was thinking of a clogged fuel filter that suddenly comes up... But its hard to decide from a distance. I would like to see the Lambda-integrator [%] value from the ecu when the problem occurs. Than you can see if th ECU is adding fuel or not. And... compare injection timing [ms] when the problem occurs and not.

A: i changed fuelfilter, no effect. I get bosch kts next week so then i can go to the car's brains.
I will post some documents then.

Could be it to... Do you know the service history of the car? Changing the spark plugs, filters and fluids isn't a bad idea when you don't know it.

A: All filters,fluids,sparkplugs,MAF,tps,coil,distributor cap,roller and sparkplug wires has been replaced after month ago....

Yes, can be it to

. The MAF measured a to low mass flow and the ECU wil adjust injection timing to that. But... most times an airleak is always there and not suddenly there.

A: sounds reasonable...

One last thing that you might check. Since the problem doesn't occure always and you had some cracked or lose (vacuum) hoses. There is a regulation called active canister control. It is meant to supply fuel damps into the engine instead of atmosphere. A valve is placed between a hose from the canister to the inlet manifold. If that hose is not attached to the canister but freely in the open air it causes an air leak when the valve is activated. The hose goes (If I Remeber Correctly, IIRC) from left/front side of the car to the middle of the inlet manifold.

A: got to check that...i remember i checked hoses and they were attached but another hose from canister goes somewhere above the canister and can't be seen..i check that...

Thanks again!!

Ciao

H

Henska · 8th October 2011, 15:56

Hello,

I just arrived home with my alpina...car twitched on steady throttle like i posted earlier, THEN

I switch lights off and problem disappered!!! Then switch light back on and car started to twitch...and angain lights off and problem disappered...and 20km driving home without problem.......

Cars lightrelay box(the about 10cm x 20cm large) was broken when car was in skyline, he had been putted normal relay to lights....i think that theres some probs with earthing or signals...i don't know is the light relay connected to dme or eml anykind, but weirdly it has effect.

Have to drive without lights so long that i find new light relay box....is that normal bmw stuff? I think it should be....

Henkka.

tunderbolt · 18th October 2011, 05:56

Try replacing the cluster with one from a 535i with eml. I had a phantom problem that took me years to solve and going back and forth with Alpina turned out to be a bad instrument cluster, car now runs like a dream.Was the car imported to the US where is it located?

Henska · 27th November 2011, 18:29

Hi.

Car is in Finland.

Imported from germany.

The problem was in alternator....it charged 13,6v then suddenly dropped voltage and raised it again. No signals in dashboard or lights shimmering or anything... I started to think connection of light switch and twitching which dissappered and appered suddenly....

I put fuel pressure gauge in place and get to the road. Fuel pressure was ok. 3,0/3,1 and when pushing 3,5bar.
Everything in ignition side is new.

I don't know the absolute thruth but somehow when voltage from alternator dropped the ignition started to black out. Like traction control started to limit ignition..... That i assume from that when i take the belt off from alternator the traction control light goes on... Does the traction control sense from alternator voltage that engine is running?as like the waterpump relay to turbo's? Well now drived about 1500km's without problems. Very cool car indeed. Today washed it and droved to garage to spend winter holiday.
I thought that in winter i :

change doorhandle seals
Change indoor roof cloth
Put original radio

Adjustable coilovers
Little bit narrow tires and spacers
So i can drop it to ground like i like

And then full brake service cleaning and painting calibers to grey with golden alpina text.

And offcourse lot's of beer and planning and dreaming in the carage....

Tomba · 27th November 2011, 21:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

I don't know the absolute thruth but somehow when voltage from alternator dropped the ignition started to black out. Like traction control started to limit ignition..... That i assume from that when i take the belt off from alternator the traction control light goes on... Does the traction control sense from alternator voltage that engine is running?

No, ABS/ASC has a separate wire form DME with engine speed. The ABS/ASC sets the warning light on when the power voltage is to low. It will also store an error message related to the low supply voltage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Henska

Today washed it and droved to garage to spend winter holiday.

Pictures!!!

Btw. good to hear it runs as it should be. For the fuel pressure, you need to add the boost pressure + 3.0bar. So when the engine is boosting 0.5bar (1.5 in VDO meter) the fuel pressure must be 3.5.